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Routes in Toprope Wall

Sinbad S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sinbad Direct S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teaching Center TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Teaching Left TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Teaching Right TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Brad Young and Clint Cummins, 4/05
Page Views: 1,955 total · 18/month
Shared By: EmilyFox on Dec 1, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

To make this a 5.6 climb from bottom to top, start in the chimney between the east side of Teaching Rock and a small pillar. Move the face of Teaching Rock and continue up this consistent route with lovely views. There is also a 5.8 start available (see Sinbad Direct)

Location

Approach The Camel from the Rim trail to find Teaching Rock (another name for the "hump" of the camel). Head on trail around the south side of Teaching Rock to reach the east side. Rappel or walk off.

Protection

8 quickdraws
The first bolt is past the chimney.
Three bolt anchor at top (shared with 5.9 west face climb on Teaching Rock)

Photos

QuinTCM,

The 2007 guidebook gives a little more detailed description of the start of Sinbad. It says: "...by walking into a chimney between the east side of Teaching Rock and a small pillar." I guess that that word "walking" is pretty important in context :)

(You enter the chimney on its south side, not on the north side like you did.) Apr 6, 2015
QuinTCM TCM  
 
From looking at one of the pictures I can tell that the chimney start begins in the large space between the wall and a pillar leaning against the wall. However, I am not a smart man. See, the large pillar leans against the wall and at one point comes to a tight pinch. On the other side of this pinch is a small chimney and a little further along is the beginning to Sinbad Direct. I pressed myself into this small, awkward chimney and thought to myself, "This is the hardest 5.6 I have ever done!"
Apr 6, 2015
Slater
 
Slater  
 
Not sure what you'd do with 8 quickdraws...
There are four bolts on this route. That info isn't in the guide.
Good climbing, with some loose stuff, which is pretty par for the course at Pinns unless it has been a trade route for years, and even then...

Good warm up route. Best approached from the short end of Teaching Rock. Swing around to the backside and go downhill, walk between the big flat spire/rock - chimney up to ledge and move right to daylight and first bolt. Anchor on top are way back and face the 5.9 on the opposite face, so bring long webbing. Sep 22, 2013
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Climbed this on March 20th...a couple loose holds, especially around the first couple of bolts. Careful. Mar 21, 2010
EmilyFox
Oakland, CA
 
EmilyFox   Oakland, CA
 
Thanks for the FA info! Jan 12, 2009
Jon Hanlon
SLO
 
Jon Hanlon   SLO
 
This is an excellent route.

FA Brad Young and Clint Cummins, 4/05 Dec 1, 2008