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Routes in Middle Beauty

Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasin' the Wind T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct Start to Chasin' the Wind T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fat Man's Folly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mononuclear Knows It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: John Burcham, 1990
Page Views: 1,115 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 2, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

From the hanging belay, traverse right about 15 ft to the edge of the arete. Pull up using a short vertical crack to gain a stance (crux). Continue up the arete, climbing mostly the face to the left of the arete. This route protects very well. Just before the top, you must make some thin slabby moves to reach the ledge above really solid gear.

Location

This route is right most route located on the white arete/face above the giant roof to the left of Supercrack and the Gun Club. You must rappel in from the top and set up a hanging belay from a 2 bolt anchor at the edge of the lip of the large roof. There are shuts at the top of the route, about 15-20 ft below the cliff top. These shuts can be accessed by walking to the right(facing the river) and doing a very easy scramble to a large 5 ft wide ledge. I'm almost certain you need a 70M rope to touch down to ground, but a 60M rope easily gets you to the hanging belay. You can get back to the ground using the anchors above Supercrack.

Protection

Lots of gear in the .5 to 1" range, stoppers, tri-cams, and nothing larger than #1 Camalot.

Photos

Go do this route! Its an awesome line with multi-pitch feel. Loads of action packed into one pitch: A traverse, a tricky (but sooo good) bulge, and a slabby, not-quite-ever-over arete puzzle. Reasonable gear, but still sorta heady. Take extra finger and smaller size cams and you'll be fine. Save a red camalot-size piece for the top. Nov 18, 2015