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Routes in Middle Beauty

Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasin' the Wind T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct Start to Chasin' the Wind T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fat Man's Folly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mononuclear Knows It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Nick Brash, Bill Newman 1981
Page Views: 630 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb the corner to reach a short section of chimney. Grunt through the wide section to reach a nice hand crack. Follow crack until you reach a roof. At this point, follow a left leaning hand crack for 15 ft and then straight up to the finish. The diagonal crack is outstanding! Don't be turned off by the chimney section, it's not that bad and the gear is good.

Location

Start about 15-20 ft. to the left of the start of Chasin' the wind(standard start) below a small section of chimney.

Protection

Mostly larger gear. A #4 camalot is helpful for the chimney section. Several hands to wide-hands size pieces are helpful for the rest.

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This is a phenomenal line that has four distinct phases: corner to roof traverse; chimney, money hand jams, top-out-traverse. The view from atop is amazing.

I felt like a fatty with my gear squeezing through the chimney (Mama's Squeeze Box is a good warm-up) and seemed like the crux.

Decided to walk over to the M. Squeeze Box anchors b/c the smallish tree that serves as the rap station was a bit too wobbly for me. Friends rapped the next day and thought it was fine. May 30, 2016