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Routes in Middle Beauty

Air T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Chasin' the Wind T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Direct Start to Chasin' the Wind T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Fat Man's Folly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mononuclear Knows It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Quick Robin, to the Batcrack! T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Phil Wilt, Carl Samples '83
Page Views: 1,656 total, 13/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 5, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route

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Pull a move or two in order to gain the dihedral. Stemming, high stepping and thin fingers will bring you to a stance from which you traverse right to a bomber flake. Pull a couple of slightly overhanging moves to a good stance and follow some classic NRG topout slopers to the anchors.


Continue walking upstream from the Burning Buttress. This is one of the first routes you'll come to on the wall to the right of, and adjacent to the wall that has Rod Serling Crack on it. Look for a beautiful left-facing dihedral that is very similar to Black and Tan at Endless Wall.


Everything from #2 Camalot to purple TCU. Thin stuff for the middle. Bolted anchor up top.