Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Phil Wilt, Carl Samples '83
Page Views: 1,884 total · 13/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 5, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

Pull a move or two in order to gain the dihedral. Stemming, high stepping and thin fingers will bring you to a stance from which you traverse right to a bomber flake. Pull a couple of slightly overhanging moves to a good stance and follow some classic NRG topout slopers to the anchors.

Location

Continue walking upstream from the Burning Buttress. This is one of the first routes you'll come to on the wall to the right of, and adjacent to the wall that has Rod Serling Crack on it. Look for a beautiful left-facing dihedral that is very similar to Black and Tan at Endless Wall.

Protection

Everything from #2 Camalot to purple TCU. Thin stuff for the middle. Bolted anchor up top.

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Photos

Joe DeGaetano mid climb.
Joe DeGaetano mid climb.
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Stemmed out in the dihedral
Stemmed out in the dihedral
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Bat Crack, NRG, WV.
Bat Crack, NRG, WV.
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1 Comment

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Pat Light
Charlottesville, VA
 
Pat Light   Charlottesville, VA
 
A very good route! Sustained, but not too long. A robust, dicey start leads to a thin technical corner, which gives way to a nicely exposed finish. Not as blue collar as other routes nearby.

Bring all your small gear. Expect to do some fiddling, but it's all there. I found two spots for #2s (the first one is obvious and basically on the ground) and a thank-God #1 up top. Sep 30, 2018