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Routes in D'Arcy's Buttress

30 Second Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cemetery Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Darcy's Wall TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Death Leap 2000 TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Easy Overhang T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Traverse, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Last Gasp T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ship's Prow TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strawberry Fields TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zig-Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zschiesche's Roof T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 257 total, 2/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Between the boulder and the wall, do a move up to the big horizontal ledge. "Zig-Zag" continues more or less up the crack in front of you (while "Easy Overhang" traverses right and up the other crack). The crux is the first few moves off the ledge. Zig left up into the alcove, then zag right back into the crack.

Until 2007 or so there was a large basswood tree (see the photos of "Easy Overhang") that pressed you against the rock at the crux, and provided a convenient point of protection as well. Now that the tree is gone, this route has a much different feel at the crux....

Feels similar to the move left on "The Rack" to me, so I've called it a 5.7 instead of the traditional 5.5.

Location

On the left side of D'Arcy's Buttress, to the right of the chimney. Starts behind the large boulder.

Protection

Medium nuts and medium cams.

Photos

Jack Servedio
Raleigh,NC
  5.6
Jack Servedio   Raleigh,NC
  5.6
I thought it was harder than Brinton's for me, at least the one or two moves getting from the ledge just a few feet off the start to the alcove, those moves definitely felt stiff 5.6 with poor feet, though there is a wide array of available protection the entire route.

For the crux, you can easily have a bomber cam at crotch height and a small, but well placed nut at chest height that will keep you off the ground if you blow it.

Oh yeah, the wasps were a second crux 2/3 the way up - slotting a nut into a crack filled with wasps very, very carefully with another 3 or 4 crawling over the hand that is holding on is a delicate operation. Oct 5, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
  5.5
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
  5.5
Felt easier than 5.7. Definitely easier than Brinton's, PushMi Pull-Yu, Coatimundi, Peters Project...

Great pro. Would be nice if it was longer though. :) Aug 3, 2015