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Routes in D'Arcy's Buttress

30 Second Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cemetery Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Darcy's Wall TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Death Leap 2000 TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Easy Overhang T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Traverse, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Last Gasp T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ship's Prow TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strawberry Fields TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zig-Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zschiesche's Roof T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: TR, 30 ft
FA: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 2,177 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart" on Jun 25, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

A mega classic by any standard. Start slightly left of the corner and climb up a series of ramping edges towards the middle of the face. The crux is the last 2 moves.

Protection

top rope

Photos

Seth Jones
New Lenox, IL
 
Seth Jones   New Lenox, IL
 
Awesome route! This was the first wall that really caught my eye at Devils Lake early last year and I was finally able to finish it yesterday. Easy approach, easy TR setup. I recommend getting there early before the sun heats it up. Made the mistake of trying it at 1pm in direct sunlight on Sunday and it was miserable. Would also be a good evening route. Jun 24, 2015
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
5.8 R
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
5.8 R
Headpointed this last night via headlamp. I put a ball nut and a #0 C3 behind the flake which would have been good if it wasn't so hollow. There is a quite good but blind (while placing) ball nut placement right before the crux though. Jul 27, 2011
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
Not too reachy, just lock off harder!

Gear is poor, got a small brassy in a crack next to the very hollow flake and some vertical nuts in the seam higher up.

I thought it was more "Last Gasp" than "Last Gasp"! Jun 25, 2010
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.8
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.8
If memory serves me right, like a lot of the climbs at the Lake, if you're tall this climb is a lot easier, especially after the delicate traverse from the right to the left. Aug 18, 2007
Dear Friends:

I came upon this website by accident, but it brought back memories. I was a high school wrestler from Homewood-Flossmoor H. S. in Illinois and visited Devils Lake with a teacher and group. I climbed Darcy in 1969. I remember the thinness of the holds. I had a new (now very old) pair of Royal Robbins climbing boots and was going up from a top anchor point (of course).

I still think of the climb and would like to visit again someday. A lot of year have passed. I live in Houston, Texas now, so I don't when that might be.

Of those attempting the climb that day, I think I was the only one to make it. We camped down by the lake and swam in the early evening. If there was a better way to spend part of one's youth during the summer, I don't know what else it might be.

Best to all who visit Devils Lake. Enjoy the climbing and swimming. Life's too short and enjoy places like this while you can.

Best, KRS Oct 16, 2005

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