Between the boulder and the wall, do a move up to the big horizontal ledge. "Zig-Zag" continues more or less up the crack in front of you (while "Easy Overhang" traverses right and up the other crack). The crux is the first few moves off the ledge. Zig left up into the alcove, then zag right back into the crack.
Until 2007 or so there was a large basswood tree (see the photos of "Easy Overhang") that pressed you against the rock at the crux, and provided a convenient point of protection as well. Now that the tree is gone, this route has a much different feel at the crux....
Feels similar to the move left on "The Rack" to me, so I've called it a 5.7 instead of the traditional 5.5.
On the left side of D'Arcy's Buttress, to the right of the chimney. Starts behind the large boulder.
Medium nuts and medium cams.
La Crosse, WI
Great pro. Would be nice if it was longer though. :) Aug 3, 2015
Raleigh, NC
For the crux, you can easily have a bomber cam at crotch height and a small, but well placed nut at chest height that will keep you off the ground if you blow it.
Oh yeah, the wasps were a second crux 2/3 the way up - slotting a nut into a crack filled with wasps very, very carefully with another 3 or 4 crawling over the hand that is holding on is a delicate operation. Oct 5, 2016