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Routes in D'Arcy's Buttress

30 Second Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cemetery Wall TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Darcy's Wall TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Death Leap 2000 TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Easy Overhang T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Traverse, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Last Gasp T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ship's Prow TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strawberry Fields TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zig-Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zschiesche's Roof T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 300 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jim McGuire on Dec 11, 2003 with updates
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

Last Gasp is an aesthetically pleasing line up an obtuse outside corner just left of Darcy's Wall.

The true ascent line starts just left of the corner in a depression which in days of yore was called the "Snake Pit." One can start more easily even farther left behind a standing block and traverse back to the corner on a ledge, however this is considered an anathema and doesn't make the ascent that much easier anyway.

Continue more or less straight up, or a little left of, the corner to the top. Unless you are a real hardman you will know at the top why it is called "Last Gasp."

Protection

Small gear for a lead but 99.9% of the ascents of this route are toppers.
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.8 R
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.8 R
After leading this thing again, it is probably "R" rated. My PG13 comments from 2009 were not aggressive enough. Mar 18, 2015
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8 R
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8 R
What a great climb. For a 5.8, the movement is just superb.

I'm gonna have to go with "R" for this route. It is possible to deck, and groundfall is "R" in my book. Aug 31, 2009
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.8 R
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.8 R
I think this route deserves a PG13 designator. It would be possible to deck when going up to the last jug. Aug 31, 2009
"Snake Pit" Apr 13, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
Everyone should know this about Last Gasp: The climb starts in the pit. Do not start it on the surrounding boulders or the locals will have the route police arrest you. You will be charged with degrading a 5.8 rating to a 5.6+ (an offense that is punishable by having to buy beer for everyone at Conways).

Don't say I didn't warn you.... Jan 17, 2004
EB
Winona
EB   Winona
last gasp is one of the more fun 5.8 leads at the park in my opinion. Take two blue tcu's for the horizontal crack on the corner( they're bomber) make the crux moves and its buckets to the top Jan 12, 2004