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All Locations > Wisconsin > Devil's Lake > East Bluff 04 -… > 04: D'Arcy's Buttress

Darkness At Noon

5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British


 Avg: 2.4 from 13 votes

Routes in 04: D'Arcy's Buttress

30 Second Crack T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Cemetery Wall T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Darcy's Wall TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Darkness At Noon T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Death Leap 2000 TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Easy Overhang T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Grand Traverse, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Last Gasp T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Ship's Prow T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Strawberry Fields TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unamed 5.9 TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zig-Zag T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Zschiesche's Roof T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 368 total · 4/month
Shared By: Dylan Colon on Jun 25, 2011
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

One of the most sustained squeeze chimneys to be had at Devils Lake. Move up the chimney without getting stuck until you reach some chockstones, do an exposed move out and around the chockstones, and top out.

Location

This is the obvious dark chimney located between Zig Zag and Sometime Crack Right Side.

Protection

Big Bros or free solo.

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Follow the rope straight up.
Follow the rope straight up.
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3 Comments

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Tom Mulholland
#1 Cheese Producing State!
Tom Mulholland   #1 Cheese Producing State!
No way is this 5.2. Jul 31, 2011
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
 
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
 
Tom, I'm just parroting the guidebook grade here. I'll agree this thing took more effort than most 5.6's I've done recently, though, especially considering I got stuck for a few minutes while passing the chockstones. You've done a lot more chimneys than me, what would you say it felt like? Aug 3, 2011
Ben Smith
Sunnyvale, CA
  5.4
Ben Smith   Sunnyvale, CA
  5.4
Can be led with a standard single rack to 3". No big bros required. May 12, 2016

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