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Routes in Careno Crag

A Swingin' Affair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
An Exotic Affair T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bale/Kramar route T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Careno Corners T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Struttin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corino Corner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Existential Exit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exotic Dancer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finders Keepers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Floyd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heave Ho T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just a Gigolo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killer B's S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Wing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nubbin Grubbin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Passing Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocketmeister S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pumpline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Regular Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roger's Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Freaky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wraptor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jim Yoder, 1984
Page Views: 1,832 total, 16/month
Shared By: andyf on Aug 12, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

For years, this has been one of the Icicle’s trad testpieces at the grade. Thin climbing up a thin corner with some thin gear leads to a brief but burly off-fingers crux pulling a bulge. Hope you can make the exit look elegant. I couldn’t.

This climb was written up in a 1988 Rock & Ice article by Alison Osius, who’d once spent a summer guiding for Leavenworth Alpine Guides (LAG) and had come back to revisit old friends:

"For my last day, Katie [Kemble] trudged me up a loose hillside to a ‘wild crack’ she promised no one had ever done. A steep corner up thin edges led to push-palming and bridging up the seam. At the roof that caps the pitch, I ran into trouble… I sunk awkward thumbs-down hand jams, moved my torso up with hands still low, and frogged my feet high. Caving in my ribs, I half-cornered the arête to get a foot up onto a shelf. Then I couldn’t pull either hand out. I pumped out and rattled down to the rest. Repeating the process again and again and again, every time I panted ‘Sorry…one more time,’ Katie would sing out cheerily, ‘Oh, no problem.’ So I ventured and retreated at least eight times. A gouge began to trench into one hand. But I really wanted to finish the climb, and to name it the LAG Roof for Katie, [Jim] Donini, Karl [Schneider] and Dave [Stutzman]. Then came the magic moment when the jam felt just that tiny bit better. Visions of glory trumpeted; a great new route—maybe some copy so I could write the trip off! Then I was up, belly-flopping over the top.

That night something woke me at 3:00 AM—electric pain in my elbows. In the morning, I tried to tell myself I’d been dreaming. But, I thought, at least if I’d hurt myself, it was on something emotionally satisfying, that tied the climbs and people of Leavenworth together. An epiphany, come to think of it. Then, the more I thought about it, the harder the route got. Pretty soon my internal dialogue declared ‘Eleven-d, fer sure.’

I called Yoder, and asked him about that crack. He listened to my description, asked a question or two. ‘Yeah, Pumpline. Eleven-a. I did it three years ago.'"

("Penned in Leavenworth," Rock & Ice No. 25, May/June 1988)

Location

Uphill past the Regular Route, look for the thin crack through an angled roof to the right of a prominent bolted arete (MJB Arete).

Protection

To 2", include thin wireds/TCUs. Save some gear for an anchor.

Photos

Ben Kunz  
 
Great write up and this excerpt from 1988 R&I is awesome addition! Thanks for putting that in. Definitely agree that this is a testpiece and a stout for its given 11a grade!!! Sep 5, 2013
Brian B Ballard
Laramie, WY
Brian B Ballard   Laramie, WY
Two shiny bolts have beena ADDED. Jun 27, 2011