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Routes in Careno Crag

A Swingin' Affair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
An Exotic Affair T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bale/Kramar route T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Careno Corners T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Struttin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corino Corner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Existential Exit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exotic Dancer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finders Keepers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Floyd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heave Ho T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just a Gigolo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killer B's S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Wing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nubbin Grubbin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Passing Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocketmeister S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pumpline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Regular Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roger's Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Freaky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wraptor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dave Bale, Viktor Kramar, 1995
Page Views: 2,678 total, 54/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Oct 15, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Pitch 1, the crux is getting off the ground. There used to be a flake on the left that fell off making the start rather stiff. You can belay at the bolted anchor 40'( it is nice to leave the rack for the start and either haul it up from the first anchor and continue, or haul it so the second does not have to do the boulder problem with the weight.) up or continue up mossy gully to leftward traverse to the anchors at the base of the 2nd pitch( guide book calls this 5.9, maybe 10b now for the boulder start.

Pitch 2, cruxy face climb through bolts. (10a) some small cams too

Pitch 3, sustained hand and finger crack- classic! (10b) save a #3 or #4 for the top out- easy OW.

Pitch 4, fun 5.9 , directly above anchor at top of 3rd pitch, can be wet early season at the start. Mostly bolts with some cam placements. Crux mid way up layback up side pulls and crimpy.
The Heave Ho route around the corner is another great 4th pitch option.

Location

This is the 1st route on the left side of Careno Crag. Small cleft in the face behind maples with a bolt with a tricky boulder move. You can rap off to the right to the top of the Regular route, and then walk off on ledges to the NE, or rap down the Regular route, or walk around corner and rap down Bale Kramar after the 1st rap off the regular route.

Protection

gear to 3". 3 bolts on 1st pitch,2nd and 4th pitches have 6 bolts each.
All bolted anchors. The anchor at the top of pitch 4 may have slings, but no chain, and it would be a long rappel ( 70m rope would work). We traversed over to just above the top of the Regular route and is a single rope rappel. It may be hard to spot, below and east or right of the top out, requires a walk on level with top out till a rap station is found that is easy yet exposed.
Jeromy Markee
Wenatchee, WA
  5.11-
Jeromy Markee   Wenatchee, WA
  5.11-
P1 boulder moves definitely 5.11. Nice landing if you blow it before the bolt

Pocketmeister finish is superb Sep 25, 2017
Jeromy Markee
Wenatchee, WA
  5.11-
Jeromy Markee   Wenatchee, WA
  5.11-
Rap tat at P1 anchors replaced 9/24/17 Sep 25, 2017
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
For a much better fourth pitch to this link up, climb Pocket Meister just to the left of the BK 4th pitch. Apr 17, 2017
I think a hold has broken on the first moves of the first pitch.

An easier option is the crack just to the right of the bolted "5.9" original start.

I think the crack is 5.8 and it will take you to the same first anchor. Mar 31, 2017
dido the start being more like 5.11 Jun 24, 2016
Nick Drake
Newcastle, WA
 
Nick Drake   Newcastle, WA
 
I agree with Tess, being 5'7" with my +3 t-rex index getting off the ground was the hardest part of the whole route by far for me.

P2 was great fun on thin edges, I didn't see a point to bringing small cams though, any placements aren't where it's cruxy.

P3 is classic and sustained. A #3 at the top is fine, I wouldn't bring a #4. Bring some thin gear if you want to protect getting out of the initial overhang. I put in a green c3 and a #4 brass offset before committing to the bump out left to the perfect..........ah I'm not going to spoil it :)

P4 was a bit of a write off. When you get up to the first bolt give those flakes a tap, the lowest sounds a bit hollow and it's attachment was a bit suspect to me. This pitch was pretty mungy and I personally didn't find the movement to be that much fun. It might have just been overshadowed by the prior two pitches though. May 23, 2016
Tess Wendel
Seattle, WA
5.10+
Tess Wendel   Seattle, WA
5.10+
Getting off the ground was definitely the hardest part on the whole route and I don't think being short helped. Definitely would call that first couple moves closer to 5.11. May 16, 2016