Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,231 total · 26/month
Shared By: ehhaole on Jul 26, 2008 with updates from Chris Blodgett
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

59 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


This is the "main" route up the Careno Crag as implied by the name. The thin crack at the start may be the most remarkable feature of the entire lower wall. After sweating through the balancy but short first pitch (crux), climbers will be rewarded with two more nice pitches of easier but fun and clean dihedrals. There is an obvious walk-off after the third pitch, but the route continues for another pitch.


Just downstream of the Snow Creek Trailhead parking lot on Icicle Road, see Careno Crag a few hundred feet above some houses. The route follows prominent dihedrals up the middle of the biggest rock face, right up to a large lone tree. Try to keep out of private property (start near the parking lot, and traverse in above the houses).


p1: Short thinning crack to start, then bolts
p2: Gear for 0.5 to 2 inch crack
p3: Similar to p2
p4: Nuts and small TCUs to 1 inch


Tricky pro on the upper larger of the two pockets on the first pitch. Getting something that's good without blocking your hold isn't easy...and I think below it you get a #2 BD micro stopper or something. May 5, 2009
Kelley Cox  
The fourth pitch is either the older Regular Route (5.10b); which is a number of flaring shoddy placements with a fair amount of run out, or Heave Ho (5.10a). It goes past four bolts of face climbing to a 5.10 finger tip traverse, and up into a bulging 5.9 corner, very fun. May 18, 2010
Colin Bartholomew
Colin Bartholomew   WASHINGTON
I found the fourth pitch to be enjoyable. The gear is "just good enough". Also, the grade is just a tiny bit soft if you're used to Index leads. Jun 19, 2010
Some offset nuts for the first pitch would be a really good idea. Oct 8, 2010
Ryan Hoover
Marysville, Wa
Ryan Hoover   Marysville, Wa
I'll second the 4th pitch being enjoyable. The gear goes, and you can pop in a solid nut before the crux moves. Mar 27, 2013
april 3, 2013

replaced pitch one anchor. Apr 4, 2013
Chris Blodgett
Chris Blodgett   seattle
Solid gear and good protection the whole way, minus the fourth pitch. The start and the top seemed a little pumpy, add that with small gear it was a little unnerving. May 20, 2018