Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Careno Crag

A Swingin' Affair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
An Exotic Affair T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bale/Kramar route T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Careno Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Condo Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cool Struttin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corino Corner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Existential Exit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exotic Dancer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finders Keepers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Floyd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heave Ho T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Just a Gigolo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killer B's S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Wing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nubbin Grubbin' S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Passing Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocketmeister S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pumpline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Regular Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roger's Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Freaky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wraptor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,111 total · 26/month
Shared By: ehhaole on Jul 26, 2008 with updates from Chris Blodgett
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


54 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the "main" route up the Careno Crag as implied by the name. The thin crack at the start may be the most remarkable feature of the entire lower wall. After sweating through the balancy but short first pitch (crux), climbers will be rewarded with two more nice pitches of easier but fun and clean dihedrals. There is an obvious walk-off after the third pitch, but the route continues for another pitch.

Location

Just downstream of the Snow Creek Trailhead parking lot on Icicle Road, see Careno Crag a few hundred feet above some houses. The route follows prominent dihedrals up the middle of the biggest rock face, right up to a large lone tree. Try to keep out of private property (start near the parking lot, and traverse in above the houses).

Protection


p1: Short thinning crack to start, then bolts
p2: Gear for 0.5 to 2 inch crack
p3: Similar to p2
p4: Nuts and small TCUs to 1 inch

Photos

Rafe
  5.10b
Rafe  
  5.10b
Tricky pro on the upper larger of the two pockets on the first pitch. Getting something that's good without blocking your hold isn't easy...and I think below it you get a #2 BD micro stopper or something. May 5, 2009
Kelley Cox  
 
The fourth pitch is either the older Regular Route (5.10b); which is a number of flaring shoddy placements with a fair amount of run out, or Heave Ho (5.10a). It goes past four bolts of face climbing to a 5.10 finger tip traverse, and up into a bulging 5.9 corner, very fun. May 18, 2010
Colin Bartholomew
WASHINGTON
Colin Bartholomew   WASHINGTON
I found the fourth pitch to be enjoyable. The gear is "just good enough". Also, the grade is just a tiny bit soft if you're used to Index leads. Jun 19, 2010
Some offset nuts for the first pitch would be a really good idea. Oct 8, 2010
I'll second the 4th pitch being enjoyable. The gear goes, and you can pop in a solid nut before the crux moves. Mar 27, 2013
april 3, 2013

replaced pitch one anchor. Apr 4, 2013
Chris Blodgett
seattle
 
Chris Blodgett   seattle
 
Solid gear and good protection the whole way, minus the fourth pitch. The start and the top seemed a little pumpy, add that with small gear it was a little unnerving. May 20, 2018

More About Regular Route

Printer-Friendly