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Routes in Careno Crag

A Swingin' Affair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
An Exotic Affair T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bale/Kramar route T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Careno Corners T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Struttin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corino Corner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Existential Exit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exotic Dancer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finders Keepers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Floyd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heave Ho T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just a Gigolo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killer B's S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Wing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nubbin Grubbin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Passing Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocketmeister S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pumpline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Regular Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roger's Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Freaky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wraptor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

Description

Careno Crag is a major formation low in Icicle Creek Canyon. Another of the south facing crags with little shade, Careno can be baking hot and comes into season relatively early. The majority of the climbs here are multi-pitch trad lines, with a few noteworthy bolted climbs. Numerous ledges across the massif can have the unfortunate effect of forcing you into short, wandering pitches, but also create great potential for linkups of various lines. Classics include the Regular Route and the Bale/Kramar route, but many other fine pitches are worth the time and trouble of exploring.

Most routes on Careno have bolted belays equipped for rappelling, but an easy descent can be made by scrambling down climbers right from the uppermost ledge system.
Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

To reach Careno, park at the Snow Creek trailhead. For the easiest approach, hike back along the road for approximately 0.1 miles, looking for a driveway with a sign "Hikers and Climbers Enter at Your Own Risk". A previous approach on "public?" land seems to have been lost, and this driveway is now the easiest access to public land at the base of the cliff. Hike straight up the driveway to a retaining wall and look for a trail heading up and right to the crags above. Follow the trail up past several minor crags to the base of Careno (you will pass a sign when you enter public land soon after leaving the driveway). The approach to Careno takes about 30 minutes. As with all access on private land, walk softly and treat the owners with respect.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Careno Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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