Careno Crag Rock Climbing
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GPS: |
47.54921, -120.70524 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 50,305 total · 236/month |
Shared By: | ScottH on Aug 19, 2007 · Updates |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
Careno Crag is a major formation low in Icicle Creek Canyon. Another of the south facing crags with little shade, Careno can be baking hot and comes into season relatively early. The majority of the climbs here are multi-pitch trad lines, with a few noteworthy bolted climbs. Numerous ledges across the massif can have the unfortunate effect of forcing you into short, wandering pitches, but also create great potential for linkups of various lines. Classics include the Regular Route and the Bale/Kramar route, but many other fine pitches are worth the time and trouble of exploring.
Most routes on Careno have bolted belays equipped for rappelling, but an easy descent can be made by scrambling down climbers right from the uppermost ledge system.
Most routes on Careno have bolted belays equipped for rappelling, but an easy descent can be made by scrambling down climbers right from the uppermost ledge system.
Getting There
To reach Careno, park at the Snow Creek trailhead. For the easiest approach, hike back along the road for approximately 0.1 miles, looking for a driveway with a sign "Hikers and Climbers Enter at Your Own Risk". A previous approach on "public?" land seems to have been lost, and this driveway is now the easiest access to public land at the base of the cliff. Hike straight up the driveway to a retaining wall and look for a trail heading up and right to the crags above. Follow the trail up past several minor crags to the base of Careno (you will pass a sign when you enter public land soon after leaving the driveway). The approach to Careno takes about 30 minutes. As with all access on private land, walk softly and treat the owners with respect.
Classic Climbing Routes at Careno Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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