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Routes in Careno Crag

A Swingin' Affair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
An Exotic Affair T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bale/Kramar route T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Careno Corners T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Condo Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cool Struttin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corino Corner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Existential Exit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exotic Dancer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finders Keepers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Floyd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heave Ho T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Just a Gigolo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killer B's S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Wing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nubbin Grubbin' S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Passing Lane T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pocketmeister S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pumpline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Regular Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roger's Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Freaky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wraptor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Careno Crag is a major formation low in Icicle Creek Canyon. Another of the south facing crags with little shade, Careno can be baking hot and comes into season relatively early. The majority of the climbs here are multi-pitch trad lines, with a few noteworthy bolted climbs. Numerous ledges across the massif can have the unfortunate effect of forcing you into short, wandering pitches, but also create great potential for linkups of various lines. Classics include the Regular Route and the Bale/Kramar route, but many other fine pitches are worth the time and trouble of exploring.

Most routes on Careno have bolted belays equipped for rappelling, but an easy descent can be made by scrambling down climbers right from the uppermost ledge system.

Getting There

To reach Careno, park at the Snow Creek trailhead. For the easiest approach, hike back along the road for approximately 0.1 miles, looking for a driveway with a sign "Hikers and Climbers Enter at Your Own Risk". A previous approach on "public?" land seems to have been lost, and this driveway is now the easiest access to public land at the base of the cliff. Hike straight up the driveway to a retaining wall and look for a trail heading up and right to the crags above. Follow the trail up past several minor crags to the base of Careno (you will pass a sign when you enter public land soon after leaving the driveway). The approach to Careno takes about 30 minutes. As with all access on private land, walk softly and treat the owners with respect.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Careno Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 19
Careno Corners
Trad 4 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 10
Heave Ho
Trad, Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 17
Exotic Dancer
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Cool Struttin'
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 13
Pocketmeister
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 54
Regular Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
A Swingin' Affair
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Killer B's
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 26
Bale/Kramar route
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Pumpline
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Nubbin Grubbin'
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Corino Corner
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 3
An Exotic Affair
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Careno Corners
 19
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Heave Ho
 10
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Exotic Dancer
 17
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cool Struttin'
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Pocketmeister
 13
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Regular Route
 54
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
A Swingin' Affair
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Killer B's
 5
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bale/Kramar route
 26
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Pumpline
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Nubbin Grubbin'
 4
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Corino Corner
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
An Exotic Affair
 3
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Careno Crag »

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