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GPS: 47.54921, -120.70524
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Shared By: ScottH on Aug 19, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters
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Description Suggest change

Careno Crag is a major formation low in Icicle Creek Canyon. Another of the south facing crags with little shade, Careno can be baking hot and comes into season relatively early. The majority of the climbs here are multi-pitch trad lines, with a few noteworthy bolted climbs. Numerous ledges across the massif can have the unfortunate effect of forcing you into short, wandering pitches, but also create great potential for linkups of various lines. Classics include the Regular Route and the Bale/Kramar route, but many other fine pitches are worth the time and trouble of exploring.

Most routes on Careno have bolted belays equipped for rappelling, but an easy descent can be made by scrambling down climbers right from the uppermost ledge system.

Getting There Suggest change

To reach Careno, park at the Snow Creek trailhead. For the easiest approach, hike back along the road for approximately 0.1 miles, looking for a driveway with a sign "Hikers and Climbers Enter at Your Own Risk". A previous approach on "public?" land seems to have been lost, and this driveway is now the easiest access to public land at the base of the cliff. Hike straight up the driveway to a retaining wall and look for a trail heading up and right to the crags above. Follow the trail up past several minor crags to the base of Careno (you will pass a sign when you enter public land soon after leaving the driveway). The approach to Careno takes about 30 minutes. As with all access on private land, walk softly and treat the owners with respect.

35 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Careno Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Careno Corners
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 26
Exotic Dancer
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
Cool Struttin'
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Heave Ho
Trad, Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
Just a Gigolo
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 26
Pocketmeister
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 81
Regular Route
Trad 4 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
A Swingin' Affair
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Killer B's
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 48
Bale/Kramar route
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Skyfall
Trad 3 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 35
Pumpline
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Nubbin Grubbin'
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
 6
MJB Arete
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 5
Corina Corner
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Careno Corners
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Exotic Dancer
 26
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Cool Struttin'
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Heave Ho
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Just a Gigolo
 4
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Pocketmeister
 26
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Regular Route
 81
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
A Swingin' Affair
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Killer B's
 9
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Bale/Kramar route
 48
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
Skyfall
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 3 pitches
Pumpline
 35
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Nubbin Grubbin'
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
MJB Arete
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 Trad
Corina Corner
 5
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Careno Crag »

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