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Routes in Careno Crag

A Swingin' Affair T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
An Exotic Affair T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bale/Kramar route T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Careno Corners T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cool Struttin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Corino Corner S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Existential Exit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exotic Dancer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Finders Keepers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Free Floyd T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heave Ho T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Just a Gigolo T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Killer B's S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Wing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nubbin Grubbin' S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Passing Lane T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocketmeister S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pumpline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Regular Route T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roger's Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Super Freaky T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wraptor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,471 total, 20/month
Shared By: ScottH on Aug 19, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is an enjoyable climb to the upper tier on Careno Crag. The only drawbacks are a wandering line near the beginning, forcing short pitches, and a short section of 3rd class terrain. It is possible to link this route to the Bale/Kramar, Foo Killer, and any of the routes above the upper tier.

P1. Begin right of the Bale/Kramar, climbing a steep crack up, then right. Gain a sloping rail and traverse left to a belay under the large roof (shared with BK). 5.9

P2. From the belay, head left around the roof then follow an easy gully up and right on 3rd class terrain to a large ledge and the base of a wide corner. The hardest moves on the pitch are avoiding the very large and loose blocks near the belay.

P3. Grunt and sweat up an imposing wide corner for ~30' where it narrows to hands and fists. Cracks deep in the corner and on the adjacent wall offer additional holds and gear. 5.9

P4. A steep crack pulls over a small lip, then breaks left. Alternatively, climb the wide crack to the same point. Follow broken terrain up and left to the upper ledge. (5.8-5.9). A nice variation goes up a finger crack/face to the belay on top of Foo Killer instead of continuing left on easier ground. From here, connect with the regular route to gain the large ledge. 5.9

Location

Start immediately right of Bale/Kramar, near the left edge of the rock.

Protection

Gear to 4". I was happy to have both a 3.5" and 4" camalot. 1st pitch is bolted, all other belays on gear.

Photos

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Would give this route 1 star except for the pitch that is pictured on the page which seemed to be part of a different route.

Pretty dirty climbing with short, fun sections. I had to do a fair amount of gardening on route.

I didn't see this mentioned but after the easy gully I climbed a corner up to a slightly kicked back offwidth-ish slot that protected fine with #1's in the back. It was a fun section and felt about 5.9. We brought a #4 and never used it anywhere. Guy above me mentions a 5 and a 6, seems like those would've just been in the way for me. I was able to get a piece right in the middle of the short section that was a #1.

Above on the ledge head right a bit and there's a cool looking corner between a few bolted lines. I have no idea if this was part of the route or not but it was in the 5.9 range. Easy climbing leads to a steeper double set of cracks that makes for fun stemming and jamming. This was the best pitch of an otherwise forgettable/dirty route. I highly recommend doing it.

There was an easy to find rap line that we did with a single 70m. 3 raps took us down, no walkoff necessary. I can't say whether a 60m would've reached. Aug 19, 2016
P3 is more straightforward if you bring at least one of {#5,#6}. I brought both and saw no need for a #4. Probably any combination of 2 of those 3 cams would work. May 2, 2016