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Routes in Olmsted Canyon Right

Age of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Air-Cooled Unit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Body-Double TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cash Register T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Money T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Enemy Within T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers In The Till T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grease Monkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Hot Box T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ivory Tower, Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ivory Tower, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lock of Ages T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Lord Caffeine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Apprehension T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missle Toe T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Talk Dirty to Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Techno-Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thrill Is Gone, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tideline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tits On A Bull T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dave Yerian, Tom Herbert, Merry McGrath
Page Views: 3,570 total · 30/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Aug 9, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

An outstanding finger/handcrack, one of the best of the grade in the Meadows. Lots of varied jams.

Location [Suggest Change]

In the main Olmstead area. Check Falkenstein's guidebook for more details.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Takes a range of gear from blue TCU to a #2 camalot. A #7 or 8 stopper is handy. 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

zwang  
The first tough moves are trying to fight the barn door moving through the lower buldge to a good hand jam. Plenty of opportunities for protection. The next crux is fighting the pump through the upper finger crack which is a mix of great finger locks and thin pin scars, with one last hard move to the bolted anchors. Great climbing, great pro, feels longer then it actually is. Sep 7, 2009
Tommy L-D
5.11b
Tommy L-D  
5.11b
Woof, I must have been having an off day because these thing felt reallllly hard for 11a. Great climb that protects really well, and with nice next anchor bolts + chains on top Aug 8, 2016
John Clark
San Francisco, CA
  5.10+
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
  5.10+
Secure and good rest stances the whole way up. Good soft 11a to break into the grade. Jun 11, 2018
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.11a/b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.11a/b
There is no chance that this route is 10+, its solid at 11-. For e.g., its a notable step harder than Five and Dime, which is pretty standard for 10+. I think that many people will find the flaring jams at the top to be pumpy and insecure. Just thought I'd clear that up given one of the comments above. 7 days ago

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