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Routes in Olmsted Canyon Right

Age of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Air-Cooled Unit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Body-Double TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cash Register T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Money T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Enemy Within T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers In The Till T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grease Monkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Hot Box T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ivory Tower, Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ivory Tower, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lock of Ages T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Lord Caffeine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Apprehension T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missle Toe T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Talk Dirty to Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Techno-Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thrill Is Gone, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tideline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tits On A Bull T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 437 total · 10/month
Shared By: Karl K on Aug 14, 2014 with updates
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Right leaning hand & fist crack.
Start in lower crack & move to upper crack when possible (about 10').
Pro is good until the crack peters out just below the ledge (5.9 move)
Traverse off ledge to tree (climber's left) to walk off.

Location

After reaching slab on approach (after the pond & little forest) - turn left (about 10 o'clock) and head up to orange & black wall.
Climb is furthest left of this group (is 100 yards or more left of Lord Caffiene).

Protection

Standard rack with extra 3-4".
3/4 - 1" gear needed for anchor at back of little ledge at the top (may need to excavate dirt to expose the crack)
Very well protected except top of crack 6 feet before ledge.

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