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5.11a, Trad, 70 ft,  Avg: 3.7 from 75 votes
FA: Dave Yerian, Tom Herbert, Merry McGrath
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Olmsted Area > Olmsted Canyon Right
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


An outstanding finger/handcrack, one of the best of the grade in the Meadows. Lots of varied jams.


In the main Olmstead area. Check Falkenstein's guidebook for more details.


Takes a range of gear from blue TCU to a #2 camalot. A #7 or 8 stopper is handy. 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jon Freriks on Tideline.
[Hide Photo] Jon Freriks on Tideline.
Tideline 5.11a
[Hide Photo] Tideline 5.11a
moving through the bulge
[Hide Photo] moving through the bulge
[Hide Photo] Tideline.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] The first tough moves are trying to fight the barn door moving through the lower buldge to a good hand jam. Plenty of opportunities for protection. The next crux is fighting the pump through the upper finger crack which is a mix of great finger locks and thin pin scars, with one last hard move to the bolted anchors. Great climbing, great pro, feels longer then it actually is. Sep 7, 2009
Tommy L-D
[Hide Comment] Woof, I must have been having an off day because these thing felt reallllly hard for 11a. Great climb that protects really well, and with nice next anchor bolts + chains on top Aug 8, 2016
John Clark
San Francisco
[Hide Comment] Secure and good rest stances the whole way up. Good soft 11a to break into the grade. If you feel that it is insecure, then you need better footwork. Jun 11, 2018
J. Albers
[Hide Comment] There is no chance that this route is 10+, its solid at 11-. For e.g., its a notable step harder than Five and Dime, which is pretty standard for 10+. I think that many people will find the flaring jams at the top to be pumpy and insecure. Just thought I'd clear that up given one of the comments above. Jun 12, 2018
John Clark
San Francisco
[Hide Comment] If the first part of The Enema at cookie cliff is 10c hands and Mr Natural is 10+ fingers, then this is definitely 10+, but a lot less awkward/difficult. Jun 21, 2018