Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Olmsted Canyon Right

Age of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Air-Cooled Unit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Body-Double TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cash Register T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chamber, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Easy Money T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Enemy Within T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers In The Till T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grease Monkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Hot Box T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ivory Tower, Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ivory Tower, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lock of Ages T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Lord Caffeine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Apprehension T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missle Toe T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Talk Dirty to Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Techno-Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thrill Is Gone, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tideline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tits On A Bull T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: Dave Session Sept. 1987
Page Views: 327 total · 9/month
Shared By: Bruce Morris on Dec 28, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Thin right-slanting tips crack to a hand rail traverse up and left to the top of the Ivory Tower

Location

Just to the right of the Ivory Tower Center crack

Protection

Use the Ivory Tower anchors to arrange a TR, a directional piece is useful at the start of the traverse left to mitigate rope swing while on TR.

Lead Pro.
Cams from .2" to 1'. Nuts, micro offsets and small to medium offset nuts. 

Photos

John Clark
San Francisco, CA
  5.12-
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
  5.12-
Definitely a fun TR. Bring a .75 and 1 C4 and a couple slings for directional pieces. I think this would go on gear with micro nuts, a couple micro cams, and a seriously solid belay. The last pro would be a green DMM peanut and you would take a 25ft bad groundfall if that blew, so best to TR. If the FA was game, one bolt would make this a safe lead. Jun 11, 2018
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
  5.12a
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
  5.12a
Dave Sessions did do it as a bold lead. Best to TR it. Jun 11, 2018
Thomas Claiborne
San Diego
 
Thomas Claiborne   San Diego
 
Bolts are not necessary on this route. Adding a bolt completely destroys the character of this fiddly gear route. Why does every lead have to be a safe lead? TR it or don't lead it. This route protects well with totems and tcus. Jun 26, 2018
Salamanizer suchoski
Janesville Ca.
  5.12a
Salamanizer suchoski   Janesville Ca.  
  5.12a
Kind of a short crux move requiring a one arm pinky pull up with your left hand. That's what I did anyway. Some good solid .11 climbing up to the crux. Gear seemed solid. Not a particularly difficult to protect lead. A little fiddly but solid pro the whole way. Aug 21, 2018

More About Body-Double

Printer-Friendly