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Routes in Olmsted Canyon Right

Age of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Air-Cooled Unit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Body-Double TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cash Register T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Money T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Enemy Within T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers In The Till T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grease Monkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Hot Box T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ivory Tower, Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ivory Tower, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lock of Ages T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Lord Caffeine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Apprehension T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missle Toe T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Talk Dirty to Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Techno-Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thrill Is Gone, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tideline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tits On A Bull T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Urmas and Becky Franosch, Bruce Morris
Page Views: 4,034 total · 35/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Aug 9, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A fine awkward and flaring right leaning crack climb. Depending on your strengths and weaknesses, you may find a different crux than your friends. I find all sections hard! Pants and long sleeves recommended.

Location

Left end of the Tideline area in Olmstead. Look for the obvious right-leaning splitter in a section of black rock.

Protection

From fingers up to a #4 camalot.

Photos

This is such a great 11b. A must do Aug 14, 2016
Michael Dom
  5.10d
Michael Dom  
  5.10d
The suffering was real on this climb, thought I was going to throw up by the time I hit the top. A sandbag. But, it is doable. Dec 13, 2015
mpech  
amazing physical climb. This climb belongs more at Arch rock than tuolemne! Sandbagged at 10d...
gear beta: nuts, green alien to #4. Jun 22, 2015
Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
Could most deffinetely use a #4 or #5 in the big offwidth pod thing. The beginning takes nuts really well. The top finger sized cams. This climb made me feel and look like a bitch. My confidence is still slightly tender Aug 5, 2014
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
 
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
 
I thought I heard something about how the first ascentionists wanted to rate this thing .11b. Then Bachar did it and told them it wouldn't be rated any harder than .10d in the Valley.... and that's the grade that stuck.

Might not be true, but it's kind of funny and I heard it from a couple of Bachar's pals when I lived out there. Sep 10, 2012
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
The fingers crux, IMHO, is 5.11-...everything else is solid 5.10. Sep 14, 2010
Sweet route, felt like a SANDBAG to me! Take some caffine and have fun!! Aug 9, 2010
Alexey
San Jose
Alexey   San Jose
One of my favorites. Mix of fingerlocks, heel -toes, tip layback and chicken wings.
Consists of 5 different parts.

First part is basically insecure face climb until you enter into wide section
Second part left side in short ow -10ft
Third exiting from wide part and relatively good fingers for average hands until you get good handjam rest just under the crux. This section can be hard for small fingers.
Forth : the crux of the route - two powerful moves very thin - tip layback until you get good fingerlock
Fifth : exit as chimney with chicken wings

This route take offset nuts very well. Took me 3 times until redpont. At first it was feeling that Lord Caffein is harder than Tideline, but not anymore Aug 24, 2009