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Routes in Olmsted Canyon Right

Age of Darkness T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Air-Cooled Unit T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Body-Double TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cash Register T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Money T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Enemy Within T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fingers In The Till T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Grease Monkey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Hot Box T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ivory Tower, Center T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ivory Tower, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lock of Ages T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Lord Caffeine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Miss Apprehension T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Missle Toe T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Short Change T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Talk Dirty to Me T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Techno-Pig T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Thrill Is Gone, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Tideline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tits On A Bull T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Elliot Robinson & Bruce Morris. 8/1987.
Page Views: 1,025 total, 15/month
Shared By: Gargano on Jul 12, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Begin in the wide right-facing corner below the offwidth roof. Lieback/undercling the roof (10d). Turn the corner to continue up the offwidth crack. Follow the crack to a series of steep slabs (10c) broken by two horizontal cracks.

Location

Look for the offwidth roof above a right-facing corner. Downhill and 50' right of Ivory Tower routes.

Protection

Double 5-7" gear for the OW. Singles from 1-3" for upper horizontals. Bolted anchor.
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
Here's a video by Ed Hartoni of Gary Carpenter TRing "The Thrill is Gone" (5.10d OW):

youtube.com/watch?v=GL7oUeN… May 28, 2015
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
youtube.com/watch?v=iUaevnP…

"The Thrill Is Gone" - B.B. King and Gary Moore trade solos. Hot! Hot! Hot! Aug 6, 2014
Osprey Overhang   ...
 
The Thrill Is Gone was always one of my favorite climbs in the Olmstead area. This was mainly because there would never be anyone on it, and also because the OW is high quality. I liked how the OW eases up in difficulty after turning the overhang, and is followed by difficult committing exit moves on the face above. It is also easy to set up a TR here. Jul 15, 2012