Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Milky Way Wall

Anti-Gravity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Close Encounters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Matter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deep Impact S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E.V.A. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gamma Rays in Sector C S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gemini S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Houston, We Have a Problem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Ma...No Heatshield! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milky Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Stuff Variation, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Stuff, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Boys S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Space Pigs and their Armadillo Love Slaves S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wormhole S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Christian Burrell and Tristan Higbee
Page Views: 49 total, 0/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 12, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Means "space walk" in tech speak. This is the long route that marks the border of the Milky Way wall and the start of Saturn V. Begins on a high ledge that you have to scramble up the first slab of "Space Pigs A.T.A.L.S." Find some belay bolts with lowering chains at the bottom of a corner with lots of white spekles. Belay from here.
Head up the corner and the slab above passing a roof (.10b-ish) to a great upper slab.
Plenty of easy moves and good rest spots lead to a final steep pillar.
Move to the left side and look for some small holds to get started. Then move back right and make some exposed moves past a final roof to the chains.
There is a nice jug just above the chains to clip from. Lower back to the belay and then either down climb to the ground or use the chains to do a short rap. Worth doing for the position you achieve. The crux is only the last tiny bit.

Protection

12 bolts and chains

Photos

july/30/08
Knocked off some large blocks that had to go. Didn't see any other dangerous blocks. Should be ok now. The blocks were at your feet right as you started into the crux. Jul 31, 2008
Clay Allred
Moab UT
 
Clay Allred   Moab UT
 
Don't get comfortable on this route because the crux will spit you right off. Watch for loose rock! :) Jul 31, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Good, long route. I'd give it 2.5 stars. Fun slab for the first 3/4 of the route, interrupted by a tricky little roof. The final headwall crux is pretty tricky. Potential exists to the right of the headwall for an easier finish variaton. Jul 12, 2008