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> Milky Way Wall
E.V.A.
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Christian Burrell and Tristan Higbee |
Page Views: | 492 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 12, 2008 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Means "space walk" in tech speak. This is the long route that marks the border of the Milky Way wall and the start of Saturn V. Begins on a high ledge that you have to scramble up the first slab of "Space Pigs A.T.A.L.S." Find some belay bolts with lowering chains at the bottom of a corner with lots of white spekles. Belay from here.
Head up the corner and the slab above passing a roof (.10b-ish) to a great upper slab.
Plenty of easy moves and good rest spots lead to a final steep pillar.
Move to the left side and look for some small holds to get started. Then move back right and make some exposed moves past a final roof to the chains.
There is a nice jug just above the chains to clip from. Lower back to the belay and then either down climb to the ground or use the chains to do a short rap. Worth doing for the position you achieve. The crux is only the last tiny bit.
Head up the corner and the slab above passing a roof (.10b-ish) to a great upper slab.
Plenty of easy moves and good rest spots lead to a final steep pillar.
Move to the left side and look for some small holds to get started. Then move back right and make some exposed moves past a final roof to the chains.
There is a nice jug just above the chains to clip from. Lower back to the belay and then either down climb to the ground or use the chains to do a short rap. Worth doing for the position you achieve. The crux is only the last tiny bit.
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