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Routes in Milky Way Wall

Anti-Gravity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Close Encounters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Matter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deep Impact S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E.V.A. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gamma Rays in Sector C S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gemini S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Houston, We Have a Problem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Ma...No Heatshield! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milky Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Stuff Variation, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Stuff, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Boys S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Space Pigs and their Armadillo Love Slaves S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wormhole S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Tristan Higbee and Christian Burrell
Page Views: 1,227 total, 11/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 11, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Perhaps the best line on the whole wall!
Steep climbing on the right side of a little tree. The second bolt is a bit hard to clip. It's a good idea to pre-hang this draw (easy when lowering off the routes to either side). If you do, it will make the start feel much easier. Small crimps, a somewhat hidden slopey pinch and some pockets lead to a really good slab. After you clip bolt #4, make a leftward shuffle (using a pocket) to a HUGE (I mean humongous!) hold and relief.

Protection

7 bolts and chains

Photos

Jeremy Lubkin
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Jeremy Lubkin   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Must be missing something. The very friable rock on the lower section detracted too much to me. Sep 16, 2017
Tyson
Seattle, WA
 
Tyson   Seattle, WA
 
Different strokes for different folks but I didn't love this route or Milky Way. For some reason I really prefer the routes at Tatooine. Both of these seemed really sharp and crimpy. Oct 1, 2011
Fun stuff. I liked it a lot. May 1, 2009
Clay Allred
Moab UT
 
Clay Allred   Moab UT
 
Really enjoyed this route the second time. My onsight was blown by going left at the first bolt, but I nailed it my second go. Just stay right :) Jul 31, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Check out that awesome black and orange limestone at the start! Great line on stellar rock! Long reaches to small crimps and pockets characterizes the lower half of the route, while the upper half is easy, juggy slab climbing. Jul 12, 2008