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Routes in Milky Way Wall

Anti-Gravity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Close Encounters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Matter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deep Impact S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E.V.A. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gamma Rays in Sector C S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gemini S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Houston, We Have a Problem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Ma...No Heatshield! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milky Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Stuff Variation, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Stuff, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Boys S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Space Pigs and their Armadillo Love Slaves S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wormhole S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Christian Burrell, Tristan Higbee
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Aug 16, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

The first couple moves on small, sharp crimps are the crux. Once you pull past the second bolt, it's 5.8/5.9 or easier to the top.

If you don't know where the holds are at the start, this route feels much harder than 5.11a. Find the right beta, though, and it's easy .11.

This route's middle section has a few feet with probably the worst rock on the wall (but really, it's not TOO bad). Luckily the holds there are huge. The line is still a bit dirty but should clean up nicely.

Location

This route is right of Milky Way, left of Space Invaders, and starts just left of the small pine tree.

Protection

6 bolts to ring anchors.

Photos

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John Steiger
  5.11b/c
John Steiger  
  5.11b/c
Guess I couldn't figure out the easy beta -- use the tree maybe? And what's up with that second bolt? If you climb straight up from the first bolt, you end up reaching down and right to clip it. Mar 6, 2016
A good line for someone looking to send their first .11 as the crux hits quick and is over quick.
Funny enough, this was the 2nd route bolted on the wall. We tried it once and it felt really tough. We had so many other good lines waiting for us that we got distracted and didn't get back to this one until much later.
This time we noticed the right sequence pretty quick. It went so quickly that I felt a bit stupid for not seeing it before.
Yes, it has some dirt in the middle section, but Tristan (yes-the world famous Tristan) and I are planning a cleaning day real soon. More ascents will help the dirt. Aug 17, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
This is the last route we redpointed on this section of the wall. Earlier on we were trying a sequence that was hard .11 or easy .12. Then we went up there again, found better beta, and the climb turned out to be a lot easier. This route is significantly less sustained than Dark Matter (5.11b) or even Space Invaders (5.11a). If you can figure out the good beta, I think it may be the easiest 5.11 at The Galaxy.

This route does get some dirt and pine needles on it after a good rain (that's what happens when routes go up water streaks, eh?). When clean, I think this route could be three stars.

As for the name... There were two sources of inspiration: 1) The start climbs like a boulder problem, and 2) When I was bolting and cleaning this route, I knocked some loose rocks onto some cans of compressed air (used for cleaning the routes) at the bottom. The kind of exploded, just like the oxygen tanks on Apollo 13... Aug 16, 2008