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Routes in Milky Way Wall

Anti-Gravity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Close Encounters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Matter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deep Impact S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E.V.A. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gamma Rays in Sector C S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gemini S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Houston, We Have a Problem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Ma...No Heatshield! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milky Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Stuff Variation, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Stuff, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Boys S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Space Pigs and their Armadillo Love Slaves S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wormhole S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Tristan Higbee and Christian Burrell
Page Views: 430 total, 4/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 11, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Left most line on the left side of milky way. The start is still a little loose but it getting better. The upper slab has perfect rock but the holds can be a little tricky. Don't be afraid to use the "Wormhole." A shallow 2-finger pocket to the right of the first bolt on the clean upper slab.

Protection

6 bolts and chains

Photos

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Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
From the "wormhole" I initially tried to punch right and up, which was really tenuous and hard(er than 10b). Eventually I went just barely to the left of the bolt line, still using the small shallow pocket but utilizing a very positive side pull on the left to good crimps and it felt more like 9+/10a. Whichever way the 10b grade is based on, I found going left to be less scary and still in line with the bolts. Aug 12, 2014
Michael Davidson
San Diego, CA
  5.10b
Michael Davidson   San Diego, CA
  5.10b
Definitely a little loose on the bottom half, but the crux (at least for my climbing partner and I) on the face above was clean. Worth doing. May 4, 2011
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Getting to it (scrambling up the loose dirt, etc) kinda sucks. The route starts out on good crimps, up to a cool little slot part, and then onto the rad, clean upper headwall/slab.

We named this route after a really neat, shallow, 2-finger pocket at the start of the headwall. Jul 12, 2008