Type: Sport
FA: Tristan Higbee and Christian Burrell
Page Views: 455 total · 4/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 11, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Left most line on the left side of milky way. The start is still a little loose but it getting better. The upper slab has perfect rock but the holds can be a little tricky. Don't be afraid to use the "Wormhole." A shallow 2-finger pocket to the right of the first bolt on the clean upper slab.

Protection

6 bolts and chains

Photos

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Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Getting to it (scrambling up the loose dirt, etc) kinda sucks. The route starts out on good crimps, up to a cool little slot part, and then onto the rad, clean upper headwall/slab.

We named this route after a really neat, shallow, 2-finger pocket at the start of the headwall. Jul 12, 2008
Michael Davidson
Bellevue, WA
  5.10b
Michael Davidson   Bellevue, WA
  5.10b
Definitely a little loose on the bottom half, but the crux (at least for my climbing partner and I) on the face above was clean. Worth doing. May 4, 2011
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
From the "wormhole" I initially tried to punch right and up, which was really tenuous and hard(er than 10b). Eventually I went just barely to the left of the bolt line, still using the small shallow pocket but utilizing a very positive side pull on the left to good crimps and it felt more like 9+/10a. Whichever way the 10b grade is based on, I found going left to be less scary and still in line with the bolts. Aug 12, 2014