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Routes in Milky Way Wall

Anti-Gravity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Close Encounters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Matter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deep Impact S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E.V.A. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gamma Rays in Sector C S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gemini S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Houston, We Have a Problem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Ma...No Heatshield! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milky Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Stuff Variation, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Stuff, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Boys S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Space Pigs and their Armadillo Love Slaves S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wormhole S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Tristan Higbee and Christian Burrell
Page Views: 66 total, 1/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 11, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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justa beater
sandy utah
justa beater   sandy utah
Bad blot location for crux protection. ..if you can do it by going left well then your brass is bigger than mine, being as I had to work the following day I chose to go right at the crux and avoid a potentially season ending lead fall swing into the ledge Jun 2, 2014
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Yeah, there's a second pitch on top of this one. It's 5.11c and is called Rocket Boys. There's a topo photo here that shows the routes.

I don't remember much about Gamma Rays except that the pockets down low were cool and that I didn't like how I bolted the upper part. I still need to get back up there to fix it... Maybe it's sandbagged a little bit (?) but it sounds like you were on the right route since you mentioned the bulge/spike part. Jun 30, 2010
Jon Bitter
Waco, Tx
 
Jon Bitter   Waco, Tx
 
I may have the wrong route, because the one I did had 2 pitches. However, going up and over the bulge from that spike/ledge seemed pretty stiff for 10a. There was also a good amount of loose crap. Then, on the mystery second pitch I broke off a good sized foothold onto my partner's head. Jun 30, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
The lower 2/3 of the climb (to the ledge) is really good. Fun pocket pulling to big jugs, to a funky little ledge/spike thing where you can rest. Move left and up from the ledge. After the ledge is kinda sketchy--if you fall, you'll probably swing and hit the ledge. The rock there isn't the greatest, either. Jul 12, 2008