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Routes in Milky Way Wall

Anti-Gravity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Close Encounters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Matter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deep Impact S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E.V.A. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gamma Rays in Sector C S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gemini S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Houston, We Have a Problem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Ma...No Heatshield! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milky Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Stuff Variation, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Stuff, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Boys S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Space Pigs and their Armadillo Love Slaves S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wormhole S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell & Darren K
Page Views: 235 total · 4/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Mar 20, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Realized that I never added this one. Been there for a long time though...

Can be done as two pitches, but probably better as one. It depends which way you start. Starting on Gamma Rays is probably better as two; Right Stuff (with variation) is better as one. Bolted anchor on stance to belay as 2 pitches or rap off.

Best: Start on Right stuff and move right on obvious large flake to bolted stance. Up cool tricky headwall on smallish holds to cruxy move at the apex. Great rock in this section. Continue up slabby stuff with an occasional tricky move to anchor at top of the wall.

Really enjoyed working the headwall when we first bolted it back in our little golden era...

Protection

bottom anchor + 9 lead bolts + top anchor (memory might not be perfect). Can walk off (some sharper rock up high) but easy rap with single rope.
If doing in one pitch, make sure you include enough draws for the lower section too.

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As much as I liked the headwall, I only gave it two stars as it slabs out into easier stuff afterwards. Mar 20, 2013