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Routes in Milky Way Wall

Anti-Gravity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Close Encounters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Matter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Deep Impact S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
E.V.A. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gamma Rays in Sector C S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gemini S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Houston, We Have a Problem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Ma...No Heatshield! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Milky Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Right Stuff Variation, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Right Stuff, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rocket Boys S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Invaders S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Space Pigs and their Armadillo Love Slaves S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wormhole S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Christian Burrell and Tristan Higbee
Page Views: 1,601 total, 14/month
Shared By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Jul 11, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

Another fantastic line!
Shares the same first clip as Milky Way but head up towards an obvious hole. Small finger jugs (a tad dirty, but cleaning up) leads to a steller steep upper headwall with small but very solid crimps.
The last real challenge (and probably the crux) is a deadpoint to a good hold near at the top. Get your feet high! When you hit this move you can't help but feel pretty darn good about yourself.
The route might be a bit over-bolted but at least you never really have to worry about taking a big fall.

Protection

8 bolts and chains

Photos

Jeremy Lubkin
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Jeremy Lubkin   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Really enjoyable movement and holds. Foot blew on my onsite attempt AFTER getting thru the crux to the jug... I was so relaxed and didn't expect it to blow that I lost the onsight. But found a much better hold/sequence to get thru the crux after that and it felt like solid 11b after that. Sep 16, 2017
Tanner Clegg
  5.11c
Tanner Clegg  
  5.11c
Maybe I didn't have the right beta for the crux, but I honestly felt this was pretty stiff at 11b. Necrobeastiality at Bug Barn felt substantially easier imo. Amazing line. Apr 10, 2017
Cool route for sure. Really fun moves and it seems that it has cleaned up a bit, however still a little dirty, with traffic will clean up more. As for the grade, it is more like 10 something- 10c? Maybe I am getting stronger overnight... May 1, 2009
Darren Knezek
  5.11b
Darren Knezek  
  5.11b
I give it 4 stars for that kick-ass ending. Apr 19, 2009
Clay Allred
Moab UT
 
Clay Allred   Moab UT
 
Tristan is just bitter :) This route is killer. I was all smiles flashing this super sick 11b. Jul 31, 2008
Tristan is just bitter... Jul 26, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I have personal issues with this climb. I don't like it. The first couple times I tried to redpoint it, holds broke off up high and I peeled. I don't like doing climbs more than once, and I essentially had to do this climb several times before I got it. Lame.

I definitely do NOT think it's worth 4 stars. I think it's good overall, and that the upper headwall is great. The bottom half is dirty and not super solid. Honestly, I'd give it 2.5 stars, but Christian would be mad at me, so I'm giving it 3.

The crux for me was up high -- definitely the long reach from crimps and bad feet to the jug. Jul 12, 2008