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Routes in Warning Signs

Another fun short route left of Willy's S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batting Cage S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Big Bird S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Boating Prohibited S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cookie Monster S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elmo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Enter at Your Own Risk S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gritty Gritty Bang Bang S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
House of Cards S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Land Before Time T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
No Lifeguard on Duty S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oompa Loompa S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
PG13 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Power Surge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
R.P. 4 S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Circle with a Slash S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Results May Vary S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Safety Meeting S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sharptooth T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surgeon General T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Timeless S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Warning Signs S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Warning: Laser Beam S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watch For Rocks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Willy's ChalkALot S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wonka S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Charlie Johnson, Mike Yost - Jan. 1991, TD
Page Views: 1,091 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jonathan Howland on Jun 28, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Tricky, technical, and fairly sustained. In sum, a much better route than the eponymous and more popular cousin to the North.
My partner and I identified different cruxes, neither of which is featured in Marty's book.
Exercise care around the 6th & 7th bolts, where a fall + slack and/or inattentive belayer could deck the leader on the pillar left of the route. Next time I'd have a piece (orange or red TCU?) for the bottom of the crack.
Exercise caution using a 60 meter rope; the belayer will have to scramble up 5 feet, and the climber will have to untie and down-climb (4th class) the last 5-10 feet of the gulley. Alternatively, lower to the top of the pillar at left and rap from the anchors there.
In any case, tie a knot in the end of the rope.

Location

Starts to the right and behind the Land Before Time pillar -- a short scramble up to the base.

Protection

11 draws. Optional gear for the crack, which you gain around or just after the 6th bolt.

Photos

old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10c/d
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.10c/d
beautiful climbing, lots of fun movement. i found this route to be technically easier than 'enter at your own risk' and 'warning signs.' the middle is fairly sustained, but it's on positive holds throughout. more pumpy than technically hard. i brought four sm.-med. cams, but didn't use them. if you've clawed your way to the crack you should be able to handle what's left. i also tried to stay more in line with the bolts rather than staying left in the crack Nov 11, 2017
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I climbed to the top of the Pillar via Land Before Time (5.10a), then did the rest of Timeless as a 2nd pitch (didn't know at the time that Timeless could be done as one, singular pitch). Anyhoo, the zig-zag crack on Timeless has become my new favorite stretch of rock on the Warning Signs cliff. Absolutely wild and exposed: you'll feel like you're in Yosemite, high up on some classic grade IV... except for the fact that you are clipping bolts. Super, super fun. Mar 30, 2014