Type: Sport, 115 ft (35 m)
FA: Charlie Johnson, Mike Yost - Jan. 1991, TD
Page Views: 1,936 total · 12/month
Shared By: jonathan howland on Jun 28, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

Tricky, technical, and fairly sustained. In sum, a much better route than the eponymous and more popular cousin to the North.
My partner and I identified different cruxes, neither of which is featured in Marty's book.
Exercise care around the 6th & 7th bolts, where a fall + slack and/or inattentive belayer could deck the leader on the pillar left of the route. Next time I'd have a piece (orange or red TCU?) for the bottom of the crack.
Exercise caution using a 60 meter rope; the belayer will have to scramble up 5 feet, and the climber will have to untie and down-climb (4th class) the last 5-10 feet of the gulley. Alternatively, lower to the top of the pillar at left and rap from the anchors there.
In any case, tie a knot in the end of the rope.

Location

Starts to the right and behind the Land Before Time pillar -- a short scramble up to the base.

Protection

11 draws. Optional gear for the crack, which you gain around or just after the 6th bolt.

Photos