Timeless
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m) |
| GPS: | 37.50873, -118.56781 |
| FA: | Charlie Johnson, Mike Yost - Jan. 1991, TD |
| Page Views: | 2,564 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | jonathan howland on Jun 28, 2008 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Tricky, technical, and fairly sustained. In sum, a much better route than the eponymous and more popular cousin to the North.
My partner and I identified different cruxes, neither of which is featured in Marty's book.
Exercise care around the 6th & 7th bolts, where a fall + slack and/or inattentive belayer could deck the leader on the pillar left of the route. Next time I'd have a piece (orange or red TCU?) for the bottom of the crack.
Exercise caution using a 60 meter rope; the belayer will have to scramble up 5 feet, and the climber will have to untie and down-climb (4th class) the last 5-10 feet of the gulley. Alternatively, lower to the top of the pillar at left and rap from the anchors there.
In any case, tie a knot in the end of the rope.



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