Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Todd Vogel, Dave Focardi, Oct 1990
Page Views: 1,622 total · 11/month
Shared By: Euan Cameron on Apr 16, 2007
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


53 Opinions

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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

Scramble up some blocky steps to the bottom of the wall. The crux of the climb comes in the first third of the route - 2nd to 4th bolt.

The climbing although easier above continues to be very enjoyable all the way to the finish.

A great climb and a must do for the cliff.

Location

Located in the middle of the prominent face, just left of the center of the cliff.

Protection

8 bolts, mussy hook Anchors

Photos

Good climb! Stay direct! Don't cheese out by traversing left at the crux. Jul 5, 2007
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
  5.10d
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
  5.10d
Second that: stay straight and true through the crux. A beautiful and sustained line. Solid at the grade. Dec 28, 2011
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
I climbed both variations on lead, and while the direct line is, yes, harder and very good, I thought the moves left flowed even better, and almost seems like the natural line, even though it isn't as direct.

If this variation left is done (clearly the most traveled line by vote of chalk) I'd say the route comes in at ~5.10a or b. The direct line has a very clear and defined crux, maybe two or three moves worth?

Would be a great lead for someone looking to break into this grade, as the rest of the route is nowhere near .10d, more like cruiser .9 or easy .10 IMO.

Definitely a classic no matter how you choose to send it! Nov 9, 2013