Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: E.Wolfe/T.Grundy/R.Ziegler
Page Views: 359 total · 30/month
Shared By: MisterE Wolfe on Jan 29, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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12 Opinions

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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

Climb a fun face to a flake/arete that finishes on a narrow ledge. Move right & continue up a short steep face, then move left to finish.
One can easily TR "Sharptooth" by clipping the anchors as a directional on the lower-out.

Location

This climb is directly at the top of the Warning Signs trail, to the right of "PG 13" and just to the left of "Sharptooth".

Protection

10 bolts, Metolius steel carabiners anchor

Photos

BAd
  5.9
BAd  
  5.9
This is a good route but seemed more like 5.9. A bit tough above the ledge about 2/3rds up. Be on your game and have an aware belayer. Possible ankle buster if you blow the second clip, but take that last head wall on the right for a safer clip. There's a good, hidden hold invisible from below.

Edit: Sorry-- I blew my comment. I was thinking about the second clip above the ledge about 2/3rds up. If you take it on the right, clipping it should be fine and safe. I blew it and climbed it first on the left--slippery and spooky. Yer right. MOST routes require extra care at that second bolt off the ground! This route is fine off the ground. Off that ledge above, too, if you read it right. Feb 16, 2018
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
  5.8
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
  5.8
What route isn't an ankle buster if you blow the second clip? Just asking... Feb 16, 2018
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
@Mr Wolfe.
What route isn't an ankle buster at the second bolt? 90% of well-bolted sport routes? I think most well-bolted routes allow a decent margin for error even with a some rope out for clipping. Feb 16, 2018
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
  5.8
MisterE Wolfe   Bishop, CA
  5.8
You mis-quoted me J. Albers. Don't climb it if it doesn't suit you. Feb 16, 2018
Maidy  
All in all a decent moderate warm up. It does cross a small ledge so yes... care should be taken getting off it (I think the guidebook says"climbing is dangerous somewheres"?) - but the holds are substantial if you are on route. The older mixed route "Sharptooth" is really fun and can easily be top-ropped off the upper anchor now, which is a bonus.
"Time Out" is definitely a bit easier than the older 5.9 routes (on either side)- hence the 5.8 rating IMO. Feb 17, 2018
old5ten
Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.8
old5ten   Berkeley + Sunny Slopes, CA
  5.8
fun route and i would say that 5.8 is right on the money when compared to other 5.8s in the warning signs area (and the gorge in general). Mar 24, 2018