All Locations > Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > E Temple

Lovelace

Name: Lovelace
Rating: 3.5

5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British C2-

Routes in East Temple

L › R R › L A › Z

	10th Division, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
	Casual Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2+
	Fang Spire 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2+
	Freezer Burn IV 5.10 C2 (a.k.a. Free or Burn 5.11+) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Lovelace T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b C2-
	Mobius T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Rexburg Rock Climbers Memorial Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type:	Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 9 pitches, Grade V
GPS:	37.22075, -112.94917
FA:	Dave Jones & Gary Gray in 1983, FFA: Topher Donahue & Kennan Harvey, April 1995
Page Views:	6,304 total · 29/month
Shared By:	bsmoot on Mar 12, 2008
Admins:	Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:

nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…

Description

This grade IV or V route features great rock in a spectacular setting. Climbs an ever widening crack to the top. The view looking down on the fang is fantastic. The free version is 5.12

P1 - Ascend a short approach pitch to a left facing corner.(5.6)
P2 - Ascend corner 5.10 to a narrow ledge.
P3 - Move belay right and up along a "thank God" type ledge.
P4 - Ascend thin splitters for 160' to a ledge (C2 or 5.12).
P5 - Jam a perfect hand crack (5.9) to a stance below a shallow chimney.
P6 - Climb the chimney for 40'. Traverse left to an improbable flake. Ascend this to a cool ledge (5.9) Amazing pitch.
P7 - Climb the 5.10 offwidth above to a belay below a deep chimney.
P8 - The slick bombay chimney above (5.9) ends at a hanging belay inside the chimney...Wow!
P9 - Climb the heads up squeeze chimney & offwidth to the top (5.9+)

Rap route...50m ropes will work.