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Lovelace

5.10 C2-, Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 9 pitches, Grade V,  Avg: 3.4 from 9 votes
FA: Dave Jones & Gary Gray in 1983, FFA: Topher Donahue & Kennan Harvey, April 1995
Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > E Temple
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This grade IV or V route features great rock in a spectacular setting. Climbs an ever widening crack to the top. The view looking down on the fang is fantastic. The free version is 5.12

P1 - Ascend a short approach pitch to a left facing corner.(5.6)
P2 - Ascend corner 5.10 to a narrow ledge.
P3 - Move belay right and up along a "thank God" type ledge.
P4 - Ascend thin splitters for 160' to a ledge (C2 or 5.12).
P5 - Jam a perfect hand crack (5.9) to a stance below a shallow chimney.
P6 - Climb the chimney for 40'. Traverse left to an improbable flake. Ascend this to a cool ledge (5.9) Amazing pitch.
P7 - Climb the 5.10 offwidth above to a belay below a deep chimney.
P8 - The slick bombay chimney above (5.9) ends at a hanging belay inside the chimney...Wow!
P9 - Climb the heads up squeeze chimney & offwidth to the top (5.9+)

Rap route...50m ropes will work.

Location

This classic, striking crack system is located just left of, and behind the fang spire.

Protection

3 sets TCU's, 3-4 sets cams up to a #5 camalot. Many small to medium nuts. Bring some big cams too.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topher Donahue on the crux pitch of Lovelace (5.12+), Zion NP
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Photo by Craig Luebben
[Hide Photo] Topher Donahue on the crux pitch of Lovelace (5.12+), Zion NP Photo by Craig Luebben
Neil Kauffman in the wild and wide chimney, P8 of Lovelace
[Hide Photo] Neil Kauffman in the wild and wide chimney, P8 of Lovelace
Flared fists of pitch 6
[Hide Photo] Flared fists of pitch 6
The notorious pitch 8 chimney
[Hide Photo] The notorious pitch 8 chimney
Fang Wall pitch 2 corner.
[Hide Photo] Fang Wall pitch 2 corner.
Neil Kauffman finishes up the 5.9 flake on P5 of Lovelace with the Fang Spire behind left.
[Hide Photo] Neil Kauffman finishes up the 5.9 flake on P5 of Lovelace with the Fang Spire behind left.
Jonathan wiggling up the short but stout pitch 7
[Hide Photo] Jonathan wiggling up the short but stout pitch 7

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] We made it to the top of 8. Did not send but thought the route was outstanding to there. Ran out of gas and time. Didn't need sixes till the 8th pitch chimney where it was comforting approaching the spaced pins. We found that small cams were nice on the c2 or 5.12 pitch. All the drilled angles were still bomber, most of the bolts are spinning. Bring tat, we were running low. In short, the route is classic, kudos to those who can free that piece, and dave jones is a boss. Jan 29, 2016
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Lovely route! Shaded until afternoon. Maybe OK with 2-#4Camalots, 2-#5 Camalots was enough, 1-#6 left a lot of bumping on the last 2 pitches but doable with the supplemental drilled angles. It's helpful to leave most of the rack behind for the last 3 pitches, bring a #3 and all the 4, 5, & 6 Camalots. The 6 and a quickdraw is all u need for the last pitch. ❤️ Mar 12, 2017
Sarah Crosier
Springdale, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Pitch 8 chimney was far more difficult than Pitch 9 IMO. The 6 gets a bit tipped out in soft rock, but manageable with the piton. Double rack to #6 was good for most of the climb, but small gear needed for the crux pitch with offsets being very useful. I was happy to have 2 #6 for the last 2 pitches. Dec 10, 2020