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Routes in East Temple

10th Division, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Casual Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2+
Fang Spire 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C3
Freezer Burn IV 5.10 C2 (a.k.a. Free or Burn 5.11+) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lovelace T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2-
Mobius T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rexburg Rock Climbers Memorial Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jones and O'Neall (11/86)
Page Views: 1,551 total · 11/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Apr 20, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route has a high level of adventure. There are no fixed anchors, making retreat problematic and thus this is a committing outing. You will encounter everything from spicy slab climbing, to bombay chimneys, to a fair amount of offwidth.

P1 (5.10+, 150') Follow the mainly hand crack to a belay ledge.

P2 (5.9, 100') Continue up crack to another belay ledge. Move 25' to the right and belay.

P3 (5.8) Cross the gully and face climb up to crack and belay ledge on left.

P4 (5.9+, 165') Climb the right-facing corner to the top of the White Finger Pinnacle.

P5 (5.10+) Move right and climb up through the bombay chimney to belay ledge.

P6 (5.9) Climb hands up to another belay at a ledge.

P7 (5.9+) Climb the face crack to a belay ledge on the right.

P8 (5.8) Continue up cracks and belay at a ledge on the left.

P9 (5.10+ C2+, or 5.11 R) Start by climbing the crack then move right with a few moves of C2+ then continue up the runout slab to a belay on the right.

P10 (3rd class) To the summit.

Protection

  • One set nuts
  • One each blue - yellow Aliens
  • Two each #.5 & #.75 Camalots
  • Three each #1 - #5 Camalots
  • One each #3 & #4 Big Bro

Location

Located in the center of the East Temple formation. Approach by hiking from a pullout on the north side of the road and just before a bridge .5 miles up Mt. Carmel Highway.

Descent

Make two rappels to the east and then four more rappels down the gully to the ground.

Photos

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Bryan Gilmore
FLG, AZ
Bryan Gilmore   FLG, AZ
P9 goes free at about .11r Nov 18, 2008
Ben Ricketts
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Ben Ricketts   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This was my introduction route to Zion and Utah sandstone. After this route I vowed never to return to Zion. It took my 5 years to muster up the courage to return. Since then I have done several other routes that I loved and for some weird reason I am having the urge to try this one again to see if it is as scary as I remember. My partner freed the C2+ section because he was afraid to weight the aid pieces. Mar 5, 2011

More About Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion

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