Type: Aid, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Kyle Copeland and John Middendorf 1988
Page Views: 5,638 total · 28/month
Shared By: ErikK on Mar 8, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details


This is the sugar-capped spire that stands in front of East Temple. This route has some really cool, exposed hooking on solid sandstone and some other creative aid .

There is good topo from bigwall.com.

There is also an updated topo in the visitor center.


This route goes all clean; no hammers needed.

  • Two sets of HB offsets or micro nuts
  • Two sets stoppers
  • Three sets of C3s
  • Three sets of C4s #.3 - #.4
  • Two sets of C4s #.5 - #4
  • Two talons
  • One large hook
  • Other assorted hooks
  • Two 60m ropes


Park at the pull off 1/2mile up on the Mt. Carmel Hwy form the Zion Canyon Rd. and Mt. Carmel Hwy junction. The pull off is on the left just before the bridge.

The Fang Spire is almost directly above the pullout on the left side of East Temple. Basically follow the trail that leads out from the pull off along the river and go directly up to the base. It's a short but steep approach.