All Locations > Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > E Temple

Fang Spire

Name: Fang Spire
Rating: 3.4

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British C3

Routes in East Temple

L › R R › L A › Z

	10th Division, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
	Casual Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2+
	Fang Spire 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C3
	Freezer Burn IV 5.10 C2 (a.k.a. Free or Burn 5.11+) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Lovelace T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b C2-
	Mobius T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Rexburg Rock Climbers Memorial Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type:	Aid, 650 ft (197 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA:	Kyle Copeland and John Middendorf 1988
Page Views:	5,638 total · 28/month
Shared By:	ErikK on Mar 8, 2007
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:

nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…

Description

This is the sugar-capped spire that stands in front of East Temple. This route has some really cool, exposed hooking on solid sandstone and some other creative aid .

There is good topo from bigwall.com.

There is also an updated topo in the visitor center.

Protection

This route goes all clean; no hammers needed.

Two sets of HB offsets or micro nuts
Two sets stoppers
Three sets of C3s
Three sets of C4s #.3 - #.4
Two sets of C4s #.5 - #4
Two talons
One large hook
Other assorted hooks
Two 60m ropes

Location

Park at the pull off 1/2mile up on the Mt. Carmel Hwy form the Zion Canyon Rd. and Mt. Carmel Hwy junction. The pull off is on the left just before the bridge.

The Fang Spire is almost directly above the pullout on the left side of East Temple. Basically follow the trail that leads out from the pull off along the river and go directly up to the base. It's a short but steep approach.