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Routes in East Temple

10th Division, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Casual Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2+
Fang Spire 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C3
Freezer Burn IV 5.10 C2 (a.k.a. Free or Burn 5.11+) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lovelace T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2-
Mobius T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rexburg Rock Climbers Memorial Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
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Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: Russell Gordon
Page Views: 1,264 total · 21/month
Shared By: Danger-Russ Gordon on Aug 2, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The climbing on this route is fun, and it ranges from good hands to baggy fingers. That being said, basically everything else about this route sucks. The approach is a total bush wack, the route is still a bit dirty, the sandstone on this cliff is so soft despite my best efforts I was not able to place reasonable bolts (when I brushed the whole, the brush would wear away the rock, aka not ideal). There is a nice tree directly above and behind the route which is great for top roping, but between the tree and the route is a large boulder with a very sharp edge which gave my rope a core shot while I TR soloed the route. this was just something that I tried to do after work one day, and if you want a funky/bush wacky/logistical/60ft/out of the way crack, this might be the one for you. Otherwise I would recommend just doing the headache across the valley.

Location

This is on the cliff band between the cliff right by the road on the north side of pine creek, and the East Temple. It can be see very well from the first pull off on the second switch back as you go up the road.

Protection

doubles from BD .5 - 2, a single BD 3 can be used. There are no bolts, the sandstone is so soft, if you fell on a cam, I feel there is a good chance it would blow.... Good Luck.

Photos

Justin Brunson
Broomfield CO
Justin Brunson   Broomfield CO
I feel like I need to make a pilgrimage to this route. Pay my respects. Aug 4, 2013

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