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Routes in East Temple

10th Division, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1
Casual Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Cowboy Bob Goes to Zion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b C2+
Fang Spire 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C3
Freezer Burn IV 5.10 C2 (a.k.a. Free or Burn 5.11+) T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Lovelace T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2-
Mobius T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rexburg Rock Climbers Memorial Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Aid, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Quinn, Jones (10/88)
Page Views: 1,128 total, 9/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Apr 8, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is characterized by a significant amount of offwidth climbing, relatively good quality rock, and a high level of adventure. Well worth the effort.

P1 (5.10a) Follow crack up to overhanging tree.
P2 (5.6) 3rd class from the belay lead to easy moves in an alcove.
P3 (5.9) Move left from belay and climb crack to ledge.
P4 (5.10+) Continue up the left overhanging crack in the recess to offwidth and belay.
P5 Continue up crack past a bolt to belay.
P6 (5.10, C1) Continue up crack.
P7 (5.10+) Continue up twin cracks.
P8 (5.7) Continue up crack system to top.

Protection

  • One set of nuts
  • One each blue & yellow Aliens
  • Two to three each #.5 - #1 Camalots
  • Three to five #2 Camalots
  • Two each #3 - #5 Camalots

Location

This route is located on the far right side of the East Temple. Begin hiking from pullout on the north side of the road and just before a bridge 1/2 a mile up Mt. Caramel Highway.

Descent

Scramble east for about 40 minutes to Great Arch Overlook Trail.

Photos

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This route was named in honor of my father, Alexander Jones Jr., who won a Silver Star for heroism as a member of the Tenth Mountain Division in WWII in the Italian campaign. They captured over a dozen German officers on a night patrol without firing a single shot.

After Lovelace (aka Fang Wall) I always thought this was the best route I put up on the East Temple (i.e. better than Freezer Burn, Cowboy Bob's, and Uncertain Fates). Some folks have reportedly not enjoyed it, which makes me think they got lost on the route. Let me restate that: I'm certain they got lost because Brad Quinn and I were mighty happy about the route quality, which was outstanding except for one pitch near top.
I recall that cracks needed to be switched about a third of the way up the route. Subsequent parties who climbed this may have missed the switch and ended up in sub-par climbing.
Dig up my original topo in the Park archives to get the best information. Nov 29, 2010