Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Shamick Byszewski and Cathy Beloeil, April 2001
Page Views: 1,900 total · 14/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Feb 28, 2008
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

This is a fun route and one of the steepest on the wall. The climbing is on huge buckets, for 35m! There is an anchor at about 90 feet, and stopping here makes this climb a 5.10c/d. Continuing for the full 35 meters gets a grade of 5.11a/b. There is a crux in both sections, but this is really an endurance route with no obvious hard moves.

Location

Middle Sector. When you get to the wall, you will see a large section of loose rock on your left, and several anchors 65 feet straight up. To the right a bit is an obvious arete. "Scenic Bulimic" takes the line up the left side of the arete, and "Andrea's Spine Line" goes up the right side. "Gladiator" takes the intimidating overhang that goes up left, just before the loose rock begins. The rest of the climbs are between. Multi-pitch to the top starts in this sector. Many shared anchors. See individual route descriptions!

From the spine to the loose rock (climbers right to left) the climbs go as follows:

- Andrea's Spineline
- Scenic Bulimic
- Ban Dai
- Pai Noon Mai (continues to the top)
- Three Musketeers (shares 65ft and 90ft anchors w/ Pai Noon Mai)
- Gladiator (shares 125ft anchor with "Pai Noon Mai)

Protection

Titanium, 2010. 12 draws to the first anchor, 17 to the 35m anchor. 3 or 4 long slings for rope drag if you are going to the second anchor.

Photos

anja
  5.10d
anja  
  5.10d
I think the difficulty of this climb depends on how far left/right of the bolt line you climb. The further left, the easier it is maybe 10c. If you climb direct/right of the bolt line it might be more like 11a/b. Feb 27, 2011