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Routes in Tonsai Tower

3D Zone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Andrea's Spine Line S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ban Dai S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baron Von Tok S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baron Von Tok, le Retour S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Birthday Boy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brian Fagman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
British, Russian, or Nineteen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cottonbrains of Infancy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crisis? What Crisis? S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gladiator S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Going Dutch S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Copulation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hanna's Gift S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Noon (Formerly Mr. Phi Phi) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jug City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kiss the Serpent S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Latitude Eight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lois Lane S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr Viper, Mr. Pit Viper S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pai Noon Mai S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peyote Detour S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Picking Beans in Guatemala S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirates of the Andaman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rev de Phi Phi Don S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Scenic Bulimic S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Seven Samurai S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Severed Garden, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
So, So, Sooo...People Come & People Go S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sol y Sombra S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spanish Caravan S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stir Fried Water S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stolen Russian Submarine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sut Yawd S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Musketeers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trong Pai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertical Vision S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Magnus Wiklund and Suchard Sripoh
Page Views: 1,037 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 31, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

A two-pitch climb, but usually done as one long pitch. This is the best way. 5.9 to the first anchor, with one steep crux move. At close to 80 feet it also makes for a nice warmup climb, or just and easy way to take in the view. The second pitch continues upward into the overhanging roof halfway up the tower. More typical limestone, without the horizontal bands (read: jugs) that cover the base of the tower. Belay in the big cave. Two rappels down.

Location

Middle of the right side of the wall. Start on horisontal jugs, vertical climbing, just left of a bright orange section in the lower part of the wall. The first anchor is at the end of the horizontal jugs.

Protection

Mix of Ti and SS glue in bolts, and threads. 9 draws for the first pitch, 18 if you are linking them. The climb is over protected and you could get away with skipping pro and taking only 12 or 13 draws.

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