Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Shamick, Cathy
Page Views: 542 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 31, 2007
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

This is the last (right-most) of the climbs on the left on Tonsai Tower, right before a large band of loose rock with lots of horizontal cuts. Climbs up the other side of the arĂȘte from Mr. Phi Phi. Walk left from where the trail meets the wall.

Easy to the half way point, then pull a steep bulge/roof on giant jugs and finish on steep terrain with huge pockets.

Protection

Ti and SS glue in bolts. 12 draws.

Photos

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caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
I remember this one having a way cool steep bulge right at the finish. Pretty cruiser up to that point, but a couple of fun athletic moves to pull the bulge. The best one in the grid bolted section? Jul 31, 2007
Ryan Kelly
work.
5.10d
Ryan Kelly   work.
5.10d
Interesting, that's about the same description I would give for Scenic Bulimic. Both are on an arete on the right side of a gridded section too. I wonder if one of us is confusing a route for the other. We may never know, but one thing I am fairly certain of: gridded isn't actually a word. Aug 1, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
I took a peek at my guide when I got home. I'm pretty sure it's 7 samurai I'm thinking of, the rightmost route of the gridbolt section on the left. My guidebook notes says this is the best route I did on Tonsai Tower, except for the multipitch rev phi phi dom. that thing was rad!

The climb just left of seven samurai was pretty good too, mr phi phi, and lois lane wasn't bad either. Aug 2, 2007
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.10+
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
  5.10+
You guys are talking about "Seven Samurai."

As for the grid bolting... I'm not sure what else you'd expect in Thailand. There are complete shit piles that get bolted in this country, as well as world class splitter cracks. I think to climb here you have to get over your idea of ethics and just get on the good lines.

Spending time thinking/talking/worrying about grid bolting instead of having fun climbing is just a giant waste of money. Jun 6, 2010