Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: April 2001 Shamick & Tyt
Page Views: 65 total · 1/month
Shared By: Greg Martinez on Sep 18, 2008
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

This is the most direct line to the anchor on the left in the pair of anchors that is visible where the trail meets the rock. Start on the left side of a bulge and then go right to get on the route. Head straight up on flowstone toward a tiny black roof with a small tufa hanging down. Pull the crux roof and continue PAST the anchor at 65 feet. There is another anchor at 90 feet. This does not change the grade.

This is also the best way to start "Rev de Phi Phi Don" but you would either belay at the 65 ft anchor or a THIRD anchor at 125 feet.

Location

Middle Sector. When you get to the wall, you will see a large section of loose rock on your left, and several anchors 65 feet straight up. To the right a bit is an obvious arete. "Scenic Bulimic" takes the line up the left side of the arete, and "Andrea's Spine Line" goes up the right side. "Gladiator" takes the intimidating overhang that goes up left, just before the loose rock begins. The rest of the climbs are between. Multi-pitch to the top starts in this sector. Many shared anchors. See individual route descriptions!

From the spine to the loose rock (climbers right to left) the climbs go as follows:

- Andrea's Spineline
- Scenic Bulimic
- Ban Dai
- Pai Noon Mai (continues to the top)
- Three Musketeers (shares 65ft and 90ft anchors w/ Pai Noon Mai)
- Gladiator (shares 125ft anchor with "Pai Noon Mai)

Protection

Ti and SS glue in bolts, threads. 12 draws to the 90 ft anchor.

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