Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Tonsai Tower

3D Zone S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Andrea's Spine Line S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ban Dai S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baron Von Tok S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Baron Von Tok, le Retour S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Birthday Boy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brian Fagman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
British, Russian, or Nineteen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cottonbrains of Infancy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crisis? What Crisis? S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gladiator S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Going Dutch S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Golden Copulation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hanna's Gift S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
High Noon (Formerly Mr. Phi Phi) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jug City S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kiss the Serpent S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Latitude Eight S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lois Lane S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr Viper, Mr. Pit Viper S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pai Noon Mai S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Peyote Detour S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Picking Beans in Guatemala S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirates of the Andaman S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rev de Phi Phi Don S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Scenic Bulimic S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Seven Samurai S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Severed Garden, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
So, So, Sooo...People Come & People Go S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sol y Sombra S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spanish Caravan S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stir Fried Water S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stolen Russian Submarine S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sut Yawd S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Three Musketeers S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trong Pai S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vertical Vision S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Dutch, French, Ryan Williams
Page Views: 817 total, 9/month
Shared By: Ryan Williams on Jun 9, 2010
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

This route is a mix of a few old ascents and one new pitch. In 1988 The Dutch Expedition put up a route to the orange ledge. Francois Burnier and Dominique Potard bolted another in 1990. Shamick Byszewski rebolted the first pitch of the Dutch Route in 2000 and in 2010 I linked it with the Burnier - Potard Route via a new second pitch. The entire 90m via the "Lois Lane" start is equipped with Ti glue-in bolts.


P1: 5.11a 110ft. You can begin on either “Lois Lane” or “Mr. Phi Phi.” Either way, pass the first anchor you come to and continue to the 32m anchor. The crux is the finish.

P2: 5.10d – 70ft. Sustained climbing on wonderful pockets. Go right through the early crux, then climb pockets on the right with a lot of stemming. A crack on the left drew me to this line but the pockets on the right are better. You can safely climb it either way. Head left onto the grey rock at the obvious traverse. Take a deep breath, and calmly edge to the anchors.

P3: 5.10d – 80ft. Another early crux that can be done several ways. Head up and right on a “superb orange wall.” Relax a bit and continue on sharp grey rock to a comfy belay. With long slings you could link the last two pitches.

P4: 5.10b – 50ft. Go left from the belay on easier terrain and prepare for the final hard moves at the top. Belay at the ledge.

You are now at The Ledge Routes Sector. See "Baron Von Tok le Retour" for a description of this sector and the summit pitches.

Descent: Traverse right on the ledge to the rap anchor below the Ledge Routes. See descent for "Rev de Phi Phi Don."

Location

Left Sector. From the trail, walk left past the loose section of rock. You will see an obvious white arete of flowstone... This is "Mr. Phi Phi." From the loose rock to the patch of vegetation going up the wall (climbers right to left) the climbs are as follows:

- Seven Samurai
- Mr. Phi Phi
- Lois Lane
- Trong Pai
- Baron Von Tok
- Latitude Eight
- Brian Fagman

Protection

Titanium glue in bolts, 2010. 14 draws, several long slings.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments