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Routes in The Buzzard Wall

Arbor Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Buffy the Buzzard Slayer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buzzard Bait S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Buzzard Breath T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Drop Zone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the Wings of Buzzards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rip Cord S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smooth as Silk T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Super Smooth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tail Feathers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Buzzards Dare T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Jacobs & Crowder, 1996
Page Views: 2,570 total · 21/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on Dec 26, 2007
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


33 Opinions

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Description

Wander up ledges and low overlap/roof, continue on edges passing bolts and a few gear placement to another roof, work left to the anchors.

Location

Buzzard Wall, just to the right of the gully that separates this wall and Slab Area.

Protection

Bolts, light rack, rap rings.
Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
 
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
 
Great climb. Might be good to rappel this route and clean it off a bit. Five protection bolts / two anchor bolts. The horizontal between bolts 2/3 accepts a #.75 Camalot or Red Mastercam/TCU Jan 20, 2016
Ezra Ellis
Hotlanta
  5.8-
Ezra Ellis   Hotlanta
  5.8-
Probably 5.8 at the hardest IMO, a touch far to the first bolt, but the holds are jugs.
Thanks Jody for a great route!!!!!
I used a .75 Bd camalot between the 2 and 3rd bolts and a #2 at the top. Dec 1, 2013
Kyle Lyons
  5.8+ PG13
Kyle Lyons  
  5.8+ PG13
You can walk along the ridge from the left side and set the first draw to eliminate ground fall danger. This makes it a much safer lead and is great for first leaders. Apr 18, 2010
Joey Wolfe
  5.9-
Joey Wolfe  
  5.9-
RadDawg, I'll agree. After I OS this I said to my partner, "Where was the 5.9?", his response was "You have been climbing at Sunset too much." So, I thought I was just was having a good day. This route is a blast and I really like the way it was bolted. A little heady after pulling the second bulge/steep section/crux, heading for the 'bolt in a dish'(which i didn't see until it was level with my shoulder) but safe. Sep 21, 2008
RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
OK Paul, 5.8+ ? Sep 13, 2008
RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
This route, now that it's clean, is more like 5.8 than the original 5.9 rating.

As to the description, there is no "work left to the anchors", but my descriptions are goofy sometimes too :)

BB is the first (left most) bolted route on the main face of the Buzzard Wall, to the right of the gulley that separates the Buzzard wall from the Slab. Climb up some sandy flat ledges to the ledge under the bulge, move up through the bulge past a couple of bolts, climb some slab moves past two more bolts and the wall gets steeper, move slightly left then straight up on big holds for a bit to a bolt in a dish, continue up to the exit bulge that's split by a crack (gear), pull that to the top and a pair of fixe ring anchors. As previously posted you can TR or rap with a 60m rope from these anchors. JJ Aug 15, 2008
EL WRAY
fort myers, fl
 
EL WRAY   fort myers, fl
 
this was my first lead ever. good climb. 60m rope allows for easy top rope or rappel. a .75 or 1 bd cam is nice for top overlap, but i usually bring just draws. Feb 6, 2008