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Routes in The Buzzard Wall

Arbor Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Buffy the Buzzard Slayer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buzzard Bait S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Buzzard Breath T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Drop Zone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the Wings of Buzzards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rip Cord S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smooth as Silk T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Super Smooth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tail Feathers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Buzzards Dare T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dan Sniff
Page Views: 1,824 total, 15/month
Shared By: andjoely on Jan 18, 2008
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description:

Climb the sweet finger crack using a few key face holds for about 30 feet. then wander up easy face to roof with horizontals. pull roof and continue to top.

Pro: up to #2 camalot. small nuts, small TCUs. Some key nut placements

Photos

Adam Kunis
Athens/Plymouth
Adam Kunis   Athens/Plymouth
Cleaned this route up last weekend. Did a fair bit of gardening on it, but there's still a good bit of dirt in the cracks. The top is still a little licheny and sandy, but it's a good fun route. Nov 5, 2017
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
Climbed this sometime in the late 90s, when the original DCA had it listed as 10a. After climbing it, I thought it was about the hardest 10a I'd done. Many years later, new guide, new rating. Lots of little typos, errors, and omissions in the first single vol edition of DCA. I clearly remember a bomber small DMM nut, a #2 IIRC (=about a #5 BD) at the crux, perfectly protecting the business move. May 13, 2016
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
  5.11-
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
  5.11-
You know I would. I have been climbing a Currahee lately to detox from all the long drives out to sandstone. Jan 25, 2011
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
5.11
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
5.11
Yes, you use the flake and then step right. Otherwise, you could snag the ~13a FA on the direct start by going straight up. ;-) There are a couple of other newer, undocumented routes in that secteur; just let me know if you want any more info. Jan 24, 2011
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
  5.11-
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
  5.11-
Does it go out the roof on those flakes and then traverse right onto the face? Jan 24, 2011
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
5.11
Stephen Felker   Boulder, CO
5.11
That is Super Smooth (11d). Jan 24, 2011
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
  5.11-
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
  5.11-
What is the bolted route to the left of Smooth as Silk? Jan 23, 2011
John Miller got the second, with on sight flash.

Sniff Sep 17, 2010
EL WRAY
fort myers, fl
 
EL WRAY   fort myers, fl
 
must do route. #4 and 5 bd nuts are essential for first few moves, and are bomber placements if you look. after almost half a day of cleaning this route is returned to true form on the upper part of the crack, and allows for much better pro without having to move onto the face. Feb 6, 2008
Joey Wolfe
  5.11a
Joey Wolfe  
  5.11a
This crack finishes with tea cup hands and a fist jam or two. Not to be missed. Jan 19, 2008