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Routes in The Buzzard Wall

Arbor Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Buffy the Buzzard Slayer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buzzard Bait S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Buzzard Breath T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Drop Zone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the Wings of Buzzards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rip Cord S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smooth as Silk T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Super Smooth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tail Feathers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Buzzards Dare T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Michael Crowder and Russell Sagon, 1996
Page Views: 604 total, 5/month
Shared By: Chuck Parks on Feb 8, 2008
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description

A bouldery move gets you to a stance below the roof. Reach out and clip the second bolt, then pull the overhang onto the slab above. Continue past a short, dirty crack system, a bolt, and a tree to the high roof. Pull the roof at the left end(?) and continue to the top.

Location

Look for a low bolt (can just reach it from the ground) on the face of the Buzzard Wall below the left end of an overhang.

Protection

mixed route, 3 bolts, anchors at top

Photos

After pulling the roof I put in a #1 C4 in the dirty crack then saw the bolt to the right which was at the bottom of a line of 3 bolts. Was this line for On the Wings of Buzzards or is there a second line that is not mentioned here or in the book? It appears that the Wings line steps right after pulling the roof. Then after the last bolt it was unclear whether to go right to the Smooth as Silk anchors (lots of lichen) or left to the Where Buzzards Dare anchors. Felt better to see to 10c rating on the description here. More accurate to me than 10 in the book. Dec 12, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
This is a fairly well protected lead for the middle section of Buzzard Wall (hope your tall). This one also stays dry. The upper slab crux is exciting. I up-downed that move several times before I grab my balls. Clip the bolt pull the roof for some added pump. Jul 1, 2009