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Routes in The Buzzard Wall

Arbor Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Buffy the Buzzard Slayer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buzzard Bait S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Buzzard Breath T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Drop Zone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the Wings of Buzzards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rip Cord S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smooth as Silk T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Super Smooth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tail Feathers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Buzzards Dare T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,107 total, 11/month
Shared By: Asymptote on Jul 25, 2009
Admins: saxfiend

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Description

Starts far left of Buzzard Wall. Climb up slab trending left to first bolt way off the deck. Climbing is straight forward but a little run out between bolts. There is a #2 camalot placement about half way up but not really needed. Going left alond the arete near top avoids playing in the dirt. Good stance under slight overhang near 2 bolt anchor or climb over top.

Location

First route on the left face of Buzzard Wall just left of Buzzard Breath.

Protection

bolted

Photos

Brian Hudson
Hickory, NC
  5.7 R
Brian Hudson   Hickory, NC
  5.7 R
A toprope can be set up for this route by scrambling down a chossy, steep trail off the left of the main graffiti-covered overlook. The anchors that appear obvious for this route will tend to pull a climber toward (or over) the arete in a fall. The ground starts high on the left and slopes down to the right. Two moves into the route and you're already looking at a 15' fall. The first decent place for pro I found was about 40' off the deck. Feb 9, 2013
RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
Buzzard Bait is actually a poorly protected trad route. It starts at the base of the gully that splilts the Buzzard and Slab walls. Step right onto the wall and climb the face up the right side of the blunt arete. Gear can be found near the start of the steep upper section.

There's a newer bolted route, rated 5.9+, that starts up and left of Buzzard Bait and they link up near the top. The newer bolted route starts on the left side of the blunt arete that forms the left end of the buzzard wall.

More than one party has linked Buzzard Bait and the new bolted route, which I wouldn't really recommend, but I wouldn't really recommend Buzzard Bait anyway :). I think the two routes join up around the 2nd or 3rd bolt of the new route. Apr 17, 2010