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Routes in The Buzzard Wall

Arbor Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Buffy the Buzzard Slayer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buzzard Bait S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Buzzard Breath T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Drop Zone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the Wings of Buzzards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rip Cord S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smooth as Silk T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Super Smooth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tail Feathers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Buzzards Dare T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Michael Crowder, Jody Jacobs - 1996
Page Views: 1,227 total, 10/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Jan 5, 2008
Admins: saxfiend

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Description

Starting under an overhanging bulge protected by two bolts, pull through a crack system to a slopey ledge (crux). Extra points if you can make the ledge move without grabbing the pine tree or its roots. Surmount another overhang with balancy moves, then continue up on easier ground to the top.

Location

Starts about 20' right of Buzzard's Breath.

Protection

Mixed; two bolts protect the pumpy start. From the ledge on, a fairly complete rack is necessary. Bolted anchors.

Photos

Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
You can do this route on a 60 m rope Dec 21, 2013
The dead tree has been sawed off but is now hanging out of another live tree and is in the perfect place to hit a head on if someone pops off making the move at the second bolt. I saw two people on top rope knock the backs of their heads on the tree. Dec 12, 2011
JohnWesely
Red River Gorge
JohnWesely   Red River Gorge
The pine tree is now fairly dead and hanging off the cliff. Jan 23, 2011
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
Based on the note from Jody (RadDawg), I've modified the name and grade of the route. I thought it had a couple of fairly tough sections, but didn't feel like 5.11. Of course, maybe we were off route . . . Anyway, thanks for the clarification. Aug 19, 2008
RadDawg
NE, GA
RadDawg   NE, GA
I looked at that last weekend and you had to be on "Where Buzzards Dare" 5.11

2 bolts protect an overhanging section to a tree ledge, then up past a triangle shaped formation followed by a bolt, then runout for a ways and up to a bolt anchor at the top of the wall. Aug 18, 2008
saxfiend
Decatur, GA
 
saxfiend   Decatur, GA  
 
I've corresponded with Jody Jacobs, who confirms that this route is not Arbor Day. If anyone recognizes this by the description and knows what it is, let me know! Feb 10, 2008