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Routes in The Buzzard Wall

Arbor Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Buffy the Buzzard Slayer T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Buzzard Bait S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Buzzard Breath T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Drop Zone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the Wings of Buzzards T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rip Cord S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Smooth as Silk T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Super Smooth T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tail Feathers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Where Buzzards Dare T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Michael Crowder and Jody Jacobs 1995
Page Views: 304 total · 6/month
Shared By: Mark O'Neal on Dec 21, 2013
Admins: saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description

Arbor Day starts 10 feet to the right of Buzzard Breath. Climb a strenous overhanging crack to the obvious ledge that has several small pine trees on it (and bushes in the summer). Follow the crack up through easier ground and finish to the right on the same anchors as Where Buzzards Dare.

After cleaning out the crack I can't see how following it could keep the rating at the guidebook 10a rating. Escape to the left at the two handed jug to keep it 10a or try and follow the crack (there are some really sharp holds in there)

Protection

2 bolt anchor. You can sling the big tree in the crack and find sporadic gear elsewhere.

Photos

Harrison Laird
Davis, CA
 
Harrison Laird   Davis, CA
 
Toproped this yesterday. The start was super dirty and definitley requires cleaning. I didn't have a knife to cut the cordalette around the pine tree off, its pretty crusty and should not be trusted. Apr 10, 2016
Luke R 84
Georgia
 
Luke R 84   Georgia
 
I toproped it with Mark O'Neal today and he did a great job cleaning it up! We used long throws to the slopers on the left side- a quick 1-2-3 motion was needed. The cracks in that section have a decent amount of Quartz and crumbly rock, but it was still manageable after a few attempts. Not sure if this is the true route, but it made sense Jan 3, 2016
Mark O'Neal
Nicholson, GA
 
Mark O'Neal   Nicholson, GA
 
Go check it out now Nov 26, 2015
Will Carney
Tallulah Falls, GA
  5.11a PG13
Will Carney   Tallulah Falls, GA
  5.11a PG13
Plan on cleaning ALOT beforehand. Getting off the ground is a challenge. Gets easier pretty quickly. Sep 12, 2014