All Locations > International > N America > Mexico > Nuevo Leon > El Potrero Chico > Las Agujas (The Spires)

Crack Test Dummies

Name: Crack Test Dummies
Rating: 2.1

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in Las Agujas (The Spires)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aguja Celo Rey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Aspire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Bonesaw Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Crack Test Dummies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Dirty Dreams S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Downhill Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
	Easy Over S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fall of Eve S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
	Gettin' Wood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Gondwanaland S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Handsome Mike's Modeling School S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Hold on to the Light S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Jungle Honey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	La Canícula S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Nipsey Hussle S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Off the Notch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Pangea S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Peek-a-boo Jesus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sunnyside Up S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Through the Looking Glass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Uber Machismo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Up Hill Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
	Viento de Primavera S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Young Crankenstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
GPS:	25.94738, -100.47773
FA:	Dane Bass & Curtis Mai 2002
Page Views:	6,587 total · 30/month
Shared By:	Charles Konopa on Dec 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Updated, SPeplow: Previous description and guidebook do not match current configuration 2/2026.

The entire climb pretty much follows the large crack system, trending right towards the top, don't deviate from the obvious weakness.

P1: 5.7 Climb up the crack, bolt placements toggle between both sides of the crack and use of long slings helpful. There are 9 bolts leading to a 3 bolt anchor with good stance. There is an options two bolt anchor further up and slightly left for Bonesaw arete variation.
P2: 5.9 Continue up crack using stemming, face climbing and some hand and finger jams along the way. The pitch is nearly 35m to the next 3 bolt belay station. This is a long pitch with 13 bolts, so again, long slings are helpful.
P3: 5.7, 12 feet max. 1 good bolt, then 3 vintage rings, to a chain anchor at the top. This "pitch" can easily be linked with the 2nd pitch, bring additonal draws, say 14-16 in total.

Descent: From top of the spire (or pitch 2 if you prefer) rap plumb line down to chain anchors on Gettin' Wood which has a good stance on a large flake. Then another rap to the ground - plenty of rope for both raps using a 70m.