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Routes in Las Agujas (The Spires)

Aguja Celo Rey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aspire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crack Test Dummies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Dreams S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Downhill Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Easy Over S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fall of Eve S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Gettin' Wood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gondwanaland S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Handsome Mike's Modeling School S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jungle Honey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Off the Notch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pangea S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Peek-a-boo Jesus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunnyside Up S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Through the Looking Glass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Uber Machismo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Up Hill Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Young Crankenstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 250 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dane Bass & Curtis Mai 2002
Page Views: 2,512 total · 20/month
Shared By: Charles Konopa on Dec 20, 2007
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco, Nate Ball

You & This Route


72 Opinions

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Description

The entire climb pretty much follows the large crack system.

P1: 5.7 Climb up the crack, easy at first, but the bolts are spaced further apart. There are some 5.7 moves shortly before the belay. 100 feet.

P2: 5.9 Continue up crack using stemming, face climbing and some hand jams along the way. The book said this was 5.8, but it felt plenty harder than that. This is a long pitch with some wayward bolts, so use slings when necessary. 138 feet to a 5 bolt anchor and a nice belay stance.

P3: 5.7 airy. 12 feet. 1 good bolt, then 3 rusty rings, then a chain anchor on either side of the top. To finish the climb, gently walk a few feet over the loose blocks to the summit and stand tall.

Descent: Lower one person down 12 feet to the good anchors. Then only one person has to rap off a single chain. From top of pitch 2 do a long rap to anchors on Gettin' Wood (down and upslope a little) Then another long rap to the ground. We did the raps with a 70m rope, but had extra each time.

Location

On the shady side of the downhill spire at large crack/chimney looking feature.

Protection

10 bolts or so.

Photos

Dan Africk
Brooklyn, New York
  5.9 R
Dan Africk   Brooklyn, New York
  5.9 R
This route is so horrendously runout, and the pitons so sketchy, that I consider this a trad route. Half of the 'bolts' on P2 are rusty old 'ring pins' that look like they'll snap in a strong breeze, and there are several in a row. The bolt at the crux had the hanger removed, leaving just the bare bolt to taunt you (and ensure some gnarly gouging if you slip)..

The only trad gear I brought to EPC was 4 tricams, 2 pink and 2 black, which I fortunately had on my harness this day. I placed all of them on P2, starting with a pink at the crux. I had two trad draws with me and made a third, but really needed more.

I actually think it would be a fun climb, with some nice crack / off-width / stemming moves, if it wasn't so terrifying! I say it's worth doing, if you come prepared with some trad gear and plenty of alpine draws to reduce rope drag. I managed with just pink and black tricams, but similarly sized cams (and some a bit bigger and smaller) will make your life easier.

If you climb this without trad gear or a very high risk tolerance, the long unprotected crux will certainly get your adrenaline pumping.. Mar 20, 2017
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
Though I wouldn't say this is runout, it is definately runout for P Chico. A bit of crack experience will help, there isn't a whole lot of loose stuff but, some, and they are pretty big. This route is definately not for a 5.9 leader. It almost has an alpine feel to it and is fairly dirty. Probbaly the worst of all the routes on the spires. Jan 28, 2017
If you climb this route early enough (start in dark) you may be blessed with the sound of my watch alarm beeping at around 7:45am...watch was lost somewhere up this route. To make this post worth your time it is actually quite hard to communicate from the end of pitch two to your belayer/climber below. The echoes in the canyon are crazy..*beep beep, beep beep* Oct 29, 2016
jonathan.lipkin
Brooklyn, NY
 
jonathan.lipkin   Brooklyn, NY
 
I climbed this with Rob. I led the first pitch, and while the climbing is easy, the bolts are placed in a way that if you fall, you will break your ankles on a ledge. The second pitch is confusing, exposed and run out.

There is not much loose rock left, but still an awful climb. Mar 31, 2014
Rob D.
Brooklyn, NY
 
Rob D.   Brooklyn, NY
 
worst climb on the spires, easily the worst climb we did while we were in Potrero. Bolts are poorly placed, line is awkward, and climbing is uninspiring. There is no reason to do this climb. Mar 29, 2014
Michele Evans
  5.9+
Michele Evans  
  5.9+
I think this climb must have cleaned up since the earlier remarks. There wasn't much for loose rock. A little muddy in spots but easy to avoid. This route is steep and awkward at the top for the 5.9 leader, and very run out. Brought some gear & placed a few nuts & a #3 and it made the climb enjoyable instead of scary. Going all the way to the top is worth it, a fun little summit. Jan 7, 2014
JeanGClimbs
Reading, VT
JeanGClimbs   Reading, VT
I completely agree with TaraR. I climbed this hoping to have a great time headed to the top of the large spire - this is a potential death route due to loose rock along the entire route. The climbing is awkward and unpleasant and the bolts are wayward. Avoid this route - if you really want to bag a moderate on the spires, try Celo Rey. Mar 16, 2009
TaraR
5.8+
TaraR  
5.8+
This routes can be dangerous. We didn't have a problem, but it felt sketchy and I was worried about loose rock the whole time. The next day - another couple pulled a more-than-human sized boulder off the second pitch that came tumbling to the path below. I would say, avoid the route since there are countless better climbs here. Feb 9, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.8
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.8
It's a shame there isn't a better anchor setup on the summit because setting up a belay just 10 feet below the summit and doing all the shenanigans to get up to the top and back down to the top of P2 is time-consuming and awkward.
In any case, a better finish than going up the standard P3 with crappy rings for protection is to make an airy step left from the top of P2 to the nicely bolted east face. The climbing is no more than 5.7 there too.
Using two 60m ropes tied together we were able to rap from the top of P2 all the way down to the ground going over the route Gettin Wood. Jan 1, 2008