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Crack Test Dummies
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2 from 165
votes
Routes in Las Agujas (The Spires)
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Aguja Celo Rey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Aspire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bonesaw Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crack Test Dummies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Dreams S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Downhill Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Easy Over S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fall of Eve S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13 |
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Gettin' Wood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gondwanaland S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Handsome Mike's Modeling School S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jungle Honey S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Off the Notch S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pangea S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Peek-a-boo Jesus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sunnyside Up S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Through the Looking Glass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Uber Machismo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Up Hill Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Viento de Primavera S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Young Crankenstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 25.94738, -100.47773 |
| FA: | Dane Bass & Curtis Mai 2002 |
| Page Views: | 6,340 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | Charles Konopa on Dec 20, 2007 |
| Admins: | Rudy Peckham, MAKB, Greg Hughes, Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Description
The entire climb pretty much follows the large crack system.
P1: 5.7 Climb up the crack, easy at first, but the bolts are spaced further apart. There are some 5.7 moves shortly before the belay. 100 feet.
P2: 5.9 Continue up crack using stemming, face climbing and some hand jams along the way. The book said this was 5.8, but it felt plenty harder than that. This is a long pitch with some wayward bolts, so use slings when necessary. 138 feet to a 5 bolt anchor and a nice belay stance.
P3: 5.7 airy. 12 feet. 1 good bolt, then 3 rusty rings, then a chain anchor on either side of the top. To finish the climb, gently walk a few feet over the loose blocks to the summit and stand tall.
Descent: Lower one person down 12 feet to the good anchors. Then only one person has to rap off a single chain. From top of pitch 2 do a long rap to anchors on Gettin' Wood (down and upslope a little) Then another long rap to the ground. We did the raps with a 70m rope, but had extra each time.
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