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Routes in Las Agujas (The Spires)

Aguja Celo Rey S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aspire S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crack Test Dummies S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Dreams S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Downhill Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Easy Over S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fall of Eve S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Gettin' Wood S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gondwanaland S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Handsome Mike's Modeling School S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jungle Honey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Off the Notch S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pangea S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Peek-a-boo Jesus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunnyside Up S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Through the Looking Glass S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Uber Machismo S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Up Hill Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Young Crankenstein S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: E. Baca & E. Wright, 2003
Page Views: 579 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 1, 2010
Admins: MAKB, Ricardo Orozco

You & This Route


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Description

A good enough route, but a little hard to find at first.
Approach the South side of the spires in whatever manner you choose. From the notch between the two, as for Peekaboo Jesus, head downhill to the right (Eastward, on the lower spire) to a broad right-facing corner system. Dane Bass's book makes it look like the route is on the right of this corner, but it isn't- it starts on the left.
P1 (5.9, 88'): Follow the obvious bolt line through mostly moderate terrain to a bolted anchor on a ledge. Not much to say here.
P2 (5.10, 100'): Start up and left off of the belay past an early crux. Get out past this and pass a little loos rock potential to get back onto a solid face. Pass an intermediate anchor and head up and left to a crack and corner system near the top, where the climbing gets strenuous again for a few moves. Then top out on a bolted anchor.
To retreat, rap to the intermediate belay station for perhaps 40', then a second rap to the P1 top belay, then the ground. This can be done on a 50M or 60M rope.
with a 60M or 70M rope, one can combine the first 2 raps as well, but be careful with the ends and don't get them caught pulling them.

Location

This route is the Eastern-most route on t eh S side of the spires and can be located by walking downhill on that side, watching 6 meters up for the first bolt in low angle rock.

Protection

15+ draws for P2, P1 requires fewer...
With long slings (and enough of them), you could link the entire route.

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