Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ramon Ramirez and Club Celo Rey, 1964
Page Views: 15,150 total · 93/month
Shared By: Jimmy McAllan on Jan 30, 2007 with improvements by Nathan Z
Admins: Hank Caylor, MAKB, Ricardo Orozco, Rudy Peckham

You & This Route


236 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Classic.

P1: Start at a broken ramp just right of a small palm tree. The crux is at the bulge just before reaching the "eye". Continue up to the notch between the two towers on easy ground. 8 bolts and 110 feet.

P2: Climb the south arete of Chico Spire. Thin moves right on the corner go to some old Mexican iron rings right on the summit (modern rap anchors are 5 feet below). 6 bolts and about 70 feet.

Descent: Make one double rope (50m) rappel down the south face of Chico Spire. Or rap the way you came with a single 60m rope, but be careful downclimbing the last 10 feet of the first pitch. There is also an intermediate rappel station at the notch for descending in two raps down the route. 

Location

Route is located on the North side of the Spires

Protection

Bolts and some old Mexican iron. First pitch is quite runout but can be be protected with a few mid sized cams or stoppers.

Photos